http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal daily 0.75 2018-02-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1459638772216-87IH8AGQAOAS1XYTRGUD/image1.JPG journal http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2018/2/1/penguins monthly 0.5 2018-02-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502529238-GWW794FFWJT48E7OBUJZ/IMG_2217.JPG journal - To Penguins A sign warning drivers of the wind. The tree is being violently blown [by the wind.] There are hardly any trees here. Presumably this sign is depicting why, as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503343455-ECEC572GSASTFKNWAUCH/IMG_2209.JPG journal - To Penguins Perito Moreno is the only glacier in Patagonia that’s actively advancing rather than disappearing. While, the exact reason for this is a matter of debate, it’s still nice to see a bright white glacier rather than the hundreds of muddy, melting piles we’ve seen elsewhere. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503067470-1NRWSN6PJVA5WREVZ32L/IMG_2211.JPG journal - To Penguins Fisherman and the Pacific outside Puerto Natales. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517501794519-Z45L53IE8KDRCQ5S2IRH/IMG_2150.JPG journal - To Penguins Fitz Roy is a climbing mecca. Many climbers stay for months during Patagonia’s summer season, but spend much of their time in the backpacker haven village of El Chaltén awaiting weather windows. The “real climbers” look especially capable in their ice climbing boots, heavy bags and dangling gear paraphernalia. Here Aidan holds up an extra pair of socks—the only additional gear we brought on our hike. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503895536-6AOH1QN22M33P4CER0UX/IMG_2165.JPG journal - To Penguins The Torres del Paine Park is truly spectacular, although it’s hard to know how to best approach it on a bicycle trip. The crowds are absurd, as are the regulations surrounding the hiking and camping. We opted out of the famous multi-day treks and were very happy to have a few real good (real quiet-ish) moments to ourselves. Here Aidan is literally blown away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503677841-Q30IGGD2OU3XVIP1L7H2/IMG_2222.JPG journal - To Penguins Going full tourist. Tough to poke fun at the busloads of noobs when we’re the ones who forgot to bring sunscreen to the world’s largest tanning bed, but we managed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502177556-70QQYZR51K1QPTI0R4C7/IMG_2214.JPG journal - To Penguins Borrowed a lightly-used cow field for the evening. The tent zippers have stopped working almost completely so the extent of our bug protection is a desperate prayer for no bugs. Prayers answered this evening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502036617-GPLAYUJECBFH425JFVGX/IMG_2180.JPG journal - To Penguins March of the f*&^ing Penguins!!!! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502696437-RR8NKJVHQHQWEB3MPBJ3/IMG_2169.JPG journal - To Penguins Cuernos Del Paine. Cuernos means horns. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502399010-YJQUMJXHBD6L9423OF54/IMG_2168.JPG journal - To Penguins Presumably, we will not sleep in separate twin beds nearly as often once we’re back in Portland. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502467554-SBDOW4I82GXMZVCULNFS/IMG_2212.JPG journal - To Penguins Overnighting at one of a number of highway puestos—emergency roadside stops—in the Argentinian pampa. As some of the only vertical structures (read: wind blockers) around for miles, cyclists are welcome to camp on their leeward side. Miguelito was perfectly happy to have a few neighbors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502851163-JV27Q9QA4VNRB0LVTSBP/IMG_2220.JPG journal - To Penguins Torres del Paine National Park. Tara’s alarm sounded at 3:30AM. Thirty minutes later, we left our riverside campsite in the pitch black, navigating the road into the park with headlamps. We could see the Torres towers (back right) glowing against the then clear, dark sky. Savoring the windless moment, the last of the night’s stars seemed to slide behind the towers as our perspective changed at bicycle speed. Well worth the wake up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502134855-SJWTDYNT68SCXL3Y5MLP/IMG_2184.JPG journal - To Penguins But they don’t discriminate as far testing out potential food sources... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502061744-IS00S1EFE7QDTQ2XCY3D/IMG_2178.JPG journal - To Penguins There are a few sandy superhighways connecting the beach to the penguins’ nests. They wander/waddle these routes in order to feed in the ocean before returning to share their catch with the kiddos. If you’re patient, they’ll happily go about their commute like any other day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502220488-4DLC00TXXQNK4M9Q380O/IMG_2182.JPG journal - To Penguins The only way to access the Cabo Vírgenes Pinguinera is on a looooong, dirt road in exceptionally bad shape. We’d initially planned to ride the route before learning that “looping” the peninsula was not possible, necessitating a 4 or 5-day out-and-back. There is nothing more than a massive oil refinery and a lot of sheep along the way, so when we learned—additionally—of the lack of potable water available, enthusiasm for riding really waned. All that is to rationalize the car we rented for the day. Although a nerve wracking 7-hour round trip—due to only half understanding the rental agreement and lack of anything we know to be insurance—the 250,000 mating pairs of Magellanic penguins were absolutely worth it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517501769664-AKNL4HI3PND4N5CZV1S7/IMG_2148.JPG journal - To Penguins A 3:45AM wake up had us cresting the last ridge just as the very top of Fitz Roy illuminated. The sunrise gradient grew—from the tip down—eventually painting the entire horizon. Much like other hike excursions on this trip, we ended up in the right place, at the right moment, without planning anything beyond T-bone’s early call time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517501697520-2NAZ4FWIBRHEEF4QDAKA/IMG_2151.JPG journal - To Penguins Neighboring lagunas foreground for the seven peaks comprising the Fitz Roy skyline. Fitz’s 5,000-foot granite fin is an impressive sight to behold. We later watched the film A Line Across the Sky documenting climbers Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold’s quest to traverse all seven peaks in a single expedition—a feat that only seems more absurd having sat underneath them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503038813-9ZHY57CKRS5ZKAJ9A13S/IMG_2170.JPG journal - To Penguins If we come back with Mom and Dad maybe we can stay at a hotel. This hotel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517501892568-UQMYWFTPG25O66ZJ8NPW/IMG_2166.JPG journal - To Penguins Matchy matchy! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502384611-QVBT7KGGT2W7JH8TBWBX/IMG_2164.JPG journal - To Penguins Roadside diner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517501728883-0D0KG2DQB8XQLHY9KGFL/IMG_2149.JPG journal - To Penguins Laguna de Los Tres, Los Glaciares National Park. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502157664-3IDVFZZW36RBATM8Y5Z1/IMG_2186.JPG journal - To Penguins Finger bitten, lesson learned.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503806023-OSQNRFCIWL81NNNOP5Z2/IMG_2172.JPG journal - To Penguins Wind protection for one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503359890-F9XJFPC35H3J5UIDMQVX/IMG_2204.JPG journal - To Penguins Another incredible Patagonian attraction. The Perito Moreno glacier delivers as a spectacle. Warm temps and flowing rivers meant the glacier was especially active. Platforms allow for easy up-close viewing as massive 100-foot tall chunks calve off on cue. Keep an eye out for footage from the 1000+ Gore-Texans pointing their wide angle GoPros at the glacier. Sound on for commentary. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502303865-IUKW1PF2E6CTMBID09EQ/IMG_2183.JPG journal - To Penguins 160 miles of the Ruta 40 lies between Puerto Natales, Chile and Rio Gallegos, Argentina. Essentially, the entire west to east span of South America, at this point. Though we had the wind at our backs, a long-abandoned paving project made for slow going. One of only a dozen buildings on the entire route, this puesto was a welcome sight. Luis, the caretaker, lives in a trailer out front with his Shih Tzu “Gordita” (little fatty). He was slightly suspicious of us at first but warmed to Tara’s Spanish (or just Tara) and ended up showing us to our very own trailer/room. He even fired up the water heaters for a round of showers. What a guy! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502267766-GEFLV8IYOZ85HLDZRDBV/IMG_2208.JPG journal - To Penguins Penguin chicks! A stationary bunch, these chicks spend a lot of time in the sun waiting for the fuzz to turn to fur, and mom and dad to come back with something to eat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517502095970-VU36UJFVAY4JAQQX1OAR/IMG_2179.JPG journal - To Penguins Look out, people! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503241766-L91UURIZIRNX62AXYSZV/IMG_2221.JPG journal - To Penguins Patagonian Weather: you like it or not. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517503969497-CXXDH6WGGM4JSAT0IV9C/IMG_2176.JPG journal - To Penguins Laguna Torre, Los Glaciares National Park. Cerro Torre Tower pulled the cloud covers over its head minutes before we arrived. We didn’t mind. The natural beauty of Patagonian mega attractions is often outshined by the world-class people watching. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1517504181016-6HCK3QBO655RDACE37H2/IMG_2218.JPG journal - To Penguins Photo Drunk: When it’s all just too much and you can’t stop taking pictures/be bothered with your bicycle. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2018/1/5/carretera-austral monthly 0.5 2018-01-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198486640-03O9AXSCSQAOJCHR433D/IMG_2100.JPG journal - Carretera Austral “Two adorable duckfaces” got nixed for an Instagram caption, but here it is on the blog, because who reads all of these anyway?! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515196042562-GKSWZOY5DHBNFWM6GO6X/IMG_2097.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Paso Mayer is technically a horse/pedestrian crossing due to the lack of any sort of official road. In the driest months, it is possible to pass through low rivers but most of the year the route requires the use of this privately-owned suspension bridge. Apparently the landowner built it to transfer sheep and doesn’t appreciate human traffic. We managed to pass unnoticed and definitely had plans to let Maoche do the talking if challenged. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198204891-D27BPXLEZUIRVYYJV5ZI/IMG_2102.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Leaving an estancia on the Argentina Pampa. The rain shadow effect is very real, which means Argentina is much, much drier than its latitudinally similar Chilean counterpart. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515197054641-Z95WN8Z7DHIK1PVCUAK4/IMG_2065.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Rest stop. Still on the bike seat. Saw an article on stationary bike desks—could be a game changer come time to return to the work force. (Is anyone hiring?)  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515197327671-GN1F1Y9PY7350CS3N43W/IMG_2092.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Making new friends on the sly.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515805917716-WFP78XFX2202DQO48403/IMG_2140.JPG journal - Carretera Austral We’ve a developed a deep appreciation for the indoors. Few things are more comforting than being inside (and dry) when it’s nasty outside. It doesn’t take much—couple sheets of plywood and a window/hole. The glass had been broken out of this three-walled refugio, but prevailing winds ensured our coziness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515234747929-5YOY1UNHA394D0FYNIBY/IMG_2072.JPG journal - Carretera Austral The pants are, my friend, blowin’ in the wind. The pants are blowin’ in the wind. (Epic tailwind and a mostly failed attempt at adding a sail assist.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515194500572-BVWXKZ78V5UMR0UOTMAW/IMG_2095.JPG journal - Carretera Austral A group of young gauchos went above and beyond when asked about an “out of the wind camping spot.” Four walls and our own wood stove! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515847497712-D8PZ91GPH24L9RXX9ZK0/IMG_2143.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Diligently following the dogs.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198282034-63NR72N0FZAJF1FLP9S9/IMG_2079.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Resource rich from a well-stocked grocery store, we took the opportunity to reprise our veggie ramen soup. First developed in high-altitude Peru, it proved just as delicious in drizzly Patagonia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515234369687-2W0H298RB02WQCU7Q4YL/IMG_2133.JPG journal - Carretera Austral When the weather finally breaks and you’re able to see what those clouds have been hiding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515194205942-7XSYGF8NPCVFI3F8FWLL/IMG_2080.JPG journal - Carretera Austral The Río Baker is an electric Kool-Aid blue before it joins with the glacial silt of the Río Neff a few miles up river from this valley. A sign promised that it (the color) stayed the same all the way to the sea so we postponed taking photos of its brilliance. Apparently our Spanish translations don’t yet cover color palette variations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515846729026-XI0O597LMEVRPOYQ84TT/IMG_2087.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Different day, same menu, always delicious.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1516060019644-5YLD95NK3SG5LLGZGHC0/IMG_2066.JPG journal - Carretera Austral The Río Baker is one of the largest undammed rivers on the planet. “Patagonia Sin Represas” (Without Dams) is scrawled on many a sign and wall. The allure of hydropower is understandable in a place overflowing with water but it would come at the destruction of some of the world’s few remaining great wild rivers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198340200-TEIFS3PFPYX1TP0EEK05/IMG_2068.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Bamboo cross rigging—our addition—to maximize drying space.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515194450680-Y1K703Q3PSXKMHWSHTHT/IMG_2070.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Part of Chile’s shattered island coast line, this deep inlet reaches far enough in to cut through the Carretera Austral—requiring the road’s last mandatory ferry passage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515195125922-AUVAY3GM1SR3UJL61OL2/IMG_2104.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Rusted out I-beams from an abandoned bridge project and we are out of the wind in time for lunch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515848497963-4LWHA710A3KSIX9PNVNB/IMG_2078.JPG journal - Carretera Austral We make a number of poopin in the lupin jokes. This photo is unrelated.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515805293987-LJFMYYLP52AWRFW2R0JX/IMG_2142.JPG journal - Carretera Austral When we arrived at Maoche’s the night before we learned that he had fifteen dogs. All but the very oldest and youngest came with us as he guided us through the border. A dozen dogs, a horse and three clumsy cyclists—quite the scene. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198395102-QI77CHNQKFGWAOSY1TGZ/IMG_2074.JPG journal - Carretera Austral We spent sixteen hours in the tent Christmas night/Boxing Day morning. Leaks sprung left and right—our rain fly had met its match. Cooking an entire dinner and breakfast in the tent vestibule was an exercise in learning where your—and your tent mate’s—elbows end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515847078087-XLMNWOH4PD5L796101H0/IMG_2086.JPG journal - Carretera Austral After boasting about weeks of unbelievable sunshine, we paid the karmic price with 20+ days of cold temps, wind and rain. Patagonia knows many moods. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515847255477-NPD59OH1XBZIH7IN990N/IMG_2131.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Hearing the 50 MPH insistent wind, in-and-out rain and the thwack of only partially secured corrugated roofing made this shack feel particularly cozy. Anything but being “out there.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515198108405-GKQ9PWXA4QLETR6A3TY8/IMG_2135.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Lakeside lupin.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515409098469-HNUS01MQZ1XKMKBKQMKH/IMG_2130.JPG journal - Carretera Austral We’ve been struck by the generosity of others countless times on this trip. Assuming things would change once we reached busier sections of Patagonia, our hostel hosts in Villa O’Higgins proved to be as generous and enthusiastic as anybody so far. Countless cyclists pass through their quaint town, emptying grocery store shelves and looking for cheap places to pitch their tents—and their response—a warm invitation to join in the family New Year’s celebration. Drinks and eats on NYE and an asado on NYD. Here, grandpa seasons what’s left of the lamb and poses for the tourists. Thank you Marcus, Angelica and Las Ruedas fam! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515193942214-WILMTN43QZQ09Y6SKYA3/IMG_2076.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Almost a year and a half on the road and everything is falling apart. Tara has stitched the croch of her only pair of pants multiple times. Aidan’s all but duct taped his chain back together. Tent leaks and the zippers close, some of the time. Nothing is waterproof. Tara reinflates her air mattress a few times a night—awaking Aidan in the process—and ending up on the ground regardless. We don’t worry about our bicycles anymore, no one wants them. We’ve used the same kitchen ziploc bag since Portland. Our pots smell permanently of spaghetti and our mugs, of soured wine. The notion of an actual home seems so foreign, but we’re so ready. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515193884058-TYU08TJO5OWF2G22D1FU/IMG_2067.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Christmas Day on Lago Carrera, Chile’s largest and seemingly bluest lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515805946893-XUIV1TUU73578LUNR4B6/IMG_2137.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Built for sheep, it’s too narrow for a loaded bike and required three wobbly trips to ferry bags and bikes.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515193911948-O9RP3AWK1E6M4PBRMU7Z/IMG_2083.JPG journal - Carretera Austral A memorable Christmas outrunning a massive storm. It caught up to us and validated Aidan’s perpetual distrust of rain gear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515196445435-4N9UQSCV3WS29X90QU7M/IMG_2073.JPG journal - Carretera Austral This three-walled refugio was a welcome discovery after the last ferry from Puerto Yungay left us searching for cover in the late evening rain. A little glass shard sweeping and we had ourselves a very cozy 3/4 cabin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515805449995-N3VIVWHPXCOQ62E1UUOQ/IMG_2139.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Maoche pointing out the road past where he’ll leave us. Pretty sure he’s saying that, “Everything the light touches is Argentina.” Davide listens so he can confidently tell us where to go later. (Davide left Alaska more than two years ago. He has no plans of quitting and mentioned the need for a boat to South Africa [to ride the continent north] several times. He’s an Italian madman with damn near perfect Spanish. We wouldn’t have been able to cross Paso Mayer without him.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515805252526-ENNRB7KIKXFD9T50M0UR/IMG_2141.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Maoche showed us the way across a section of no man’s land between Chilean and Argentine border immigration posts. The route—meant for horses—utilizes a private sheep bridge and crosses various rivers. While we’re not actually sure of the spelling, given the pronunciation of his name, hopefully it’s a combination of the two famous communistas.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515195164592-GQ71TQZ0WARYQGPREKX7/IMG_2098.JPG journal - Carretera Austral Davide scoping out another refugio near Paso Mayer. Inside—a fireplace, a few platforms for sitting or sleeping, and someone’s groceries. Free accessible places to sleep and trusting people make out-of-the-way Patagonia feel particularly special. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1515199589755-L55J9F7ODYXTLS3P2FJN/IMG_2132.JPG journal - Carretera Austral The Carretera Austral ends with a series of boat crossings and hike-a-bikes between Villa O’Higgins, Chile and El Chalten, Argentina. The boats are expensive and the technical singletrack route ranges from brilliant to hellish, depending on who you ask. There was a week-long waiting list for the single functioning boat by the time we arrived. The path felt beaten. Thanks to the stubbornness of the famous Davide Travelli, we opted for an alternate route—Paso Mayer. Crowd avoidance coming at the cost of an additional 250 miles of Argentinian pampa detouring. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/11/25/inpatagonia monthly 0.5 2017-12-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511630964327-5V2MOVERAOKGSND4ZY83/IMG_1929.JPG journal - In Patagonia Volcan Osorno doing its best Mount Fuji. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744585673-JJV5WPXVHCIKMHKCLIM0/IMG_1954.JPG journal - In Patagonia 'berg balancing took a turn for the cold.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684040786-FVUZ2W8GMOR6CK33FXL2/IMG_1939.JPG journal - In Patagonia Cooler than a polar bear's toenails.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747177361-YW59Y4H21BCVHVBPYDUV/IMG_1986.JPG journal - In Patagonia Camp cat, Pumpernickel.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629224493-JCW2YZAR0G9BZLDI0HHJ/IMG_1925.JPG journal - In Patagonia A watched pot boils, slowly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744660339-BTJG4NVHHFA46QYSGL4E/IMG_1958.JPG journal - In Patagonia Cerro Castillo and its half frozen laguna. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684017543-KPGAE4358VXTA1FPRXFY/IMG_1937.JPG journal - In Patagonia Patagonian weather warnings be damned—two solid weeks with these guys and no one touched their rain gear. ¡Que suerte! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512742071256-H1Y69YQ23W4KO38I2E91/IMG_1951.JPG journal - In Patagonia Band's back together and the tour bus is a 2WD Hyundai Creta.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512741993914-CP80OXSI6R1I11HJJ6XP/IMG_1961.JPG journal - In Patagonia A very frio rio outside Hornopiren, Carretera Austral. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628895289-CQCLLRP4AJ5A2D8ZKEGD/IMG_1910.JPG journal - In Patagonia Wild camping is slightly more difficult when it's all private property with high-value lakefront views. More difficult when someone requests their own high-value lake view. An undeveloped lot and a bit of light landscaping and we're in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684102405-E21TGY8TGMEHO0JD5MZ3/IMG_1943.JPG journal - In Patagonia Admittedly guilty of rooting for nature to DO something, we were rewarded (?) when a sizable chunk calved and fell the length of the waterfall to the rocks below. Given the distance, the moment is a lot like a lightning strike where you see the moment and wait for the thunderous boom across the lake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629338701-LZDPKWY9PS05PWKXPSIK/IMG_1918.JPG journal - In Patagonia Argentina's municipal camp scene is excellent for the utilization of large flat surfaces and hot showers. But, between neighborhood dogs and instrument strumming all-nighters, sleeping is better done elsewhere. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628787078-7S2R6OXB1JUYJLA1RGZ3/IMG_1914.JPG journal - In Patagonia Our formal welcome to Patagonia. Argentina Lake District—outside Bariloche. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628868582-NHDJJ486SZBCOWKRLMWX/IMG_1926.JPG journal - In Patagonia Campsites like these require many-a-goat path pursuit before finding one that does not end in either a house or dock—or whatever debauchery results in shorelines of empty beer cans. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628757868-A7TNG9V7VETKXVMPG497/IMG_1904.JPG journal - In Patagonia Our very first ferry was preceded by a 20-hour wait for the day's only departure. Plan accordingly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629004271-GXYG8HVOVRDOBPL0ZHUE/IMG_1920.JPG journal - In Patagonia There's something especially good about sleeping in the bushes off the side of the road and still insisting on wine with dinner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629055568-EQJT4FNBON6ATBR21U8H/IMG_1911.JPG journal - In Patagonia Lake country details. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747511096-KVX9QY3TQ3PBUM2MADD9/IMG_1989.JPG journal - In Patagonia The rental car afforded countless side trips down loooong, steep gravel roads. Aidan and I exchanged plenty of "we do not need to come back here on the bikes" glances. Pumalín Park, Carretera Austral. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684030470-TLLMCF39UV1S2U04VA81/IMG_1936.JPG journal - In Patagonia Looking across at Isla Quinchao from Chiloé Island—letting out (what we imagine to be) convincing sea lion noises. The channel between Quinchao and Chiloé has many a' mussel farm and floating docks filled with massive, sunning Southern Sealions. They return our barks, but remain otherwise motionless. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629248132-6WJPRTMRVQW5AK980ALJ/IMG_1917.JPG journal - In Patagonia ....and then brought us other obscure pets to pose with. He got it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512742104270-CD8PCB20PEB1EEJQMCS2/IMG_1957.JPG journal - In Patagonia Before a cutthroat round of Hearts—when everyone was still smiling.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512683964509-L7CFPDX23CP8GJURPFVG/IMG_1934.JPG journal - In Patagonia Hiking muscles and biking muscles no son iguales. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744976614-426FTGQVW6P26TRKYY9P/IMG_1948.JPG journal - In Patagonia The 'ol post hike stream sock rinse.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511630782754-L6VYEP7NSE00Z5W1AD6K/IMG_1930.JPG journal - In Patagonia Bike touring is significantly easier with an abundance of shockingly clear, fresh water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512683932826-XN3RRWV1OOTMC7Q6T9SP/IMG_1933.JPG journal - In Patagonia There are numerous ferries along the Carretera Austral—the roads dead end/lead directly onto the boat ramp and then back off of it on the other side. An accident caused a road closure and the "detour" included a twenty minute boat ride. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629482354-SFXVXDTHZRA8OMECOBKC/IMG_1924.JPG journal - In Patagonia When you both forget to hit the gas station on the way out of town...Aidan's scavenged rebar grill and fire pit fueled on desert scraps cooked our pasta in three times the normal time. A few minor burns and a lot of cookwear charring and again we are reminded how good we have it with the trusty MSR stove. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628964744-EVRCV4R984OEXXUMUOIO/IMG_1912.JPG journal - In Patagonia Equal parts dangerous and disappointing.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684000167-HQ94FCB3SASF9MX5A807/IMG_1935.JPG journal - In Patagonia Kelp and koozy color coordination. Golden hour lasts about four hours these days—with light in the sky until well after ten o'clock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744080881-XFTYKMY4G3IJWY54IJEX/IMG_1946.JPG journal - In Patagonia We followed a sheep path to the edge of the bluff on the logic that sheep don't want to fall into the ocean either. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747564763-CP71SXT7VQ35TJI8APZD/IMG_1978.JPG journal - In Patagonia Patagonian Lupin https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747124057-QRN9YI34LOYAD6W7QXIL/IMG_1984.JPG journal - In Patagonia Side excursion to the hanging glacier in Queulat National Park. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629092191-QQ1323B7UZBXPAR64H1S/IMG_1921.JPG journal - In Patagonia Perhaps a consequence of growing up on the rocky coasts of Maine, Aidan is constantly and consistently entertained by a good rock throwin'. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747093820-7T9IJAD5MXM0YQ745PHF/IMG_1987.JPG journal - In Patagonia Teaser... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744055736-ZWRKVCT7R6ONNC16WOEW/IMG_1955.JPG journal - In Patagonia When you're supposed to be the ones in good shape, but spend most days chasing after the youngsters. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628822285-4LXZX5OY4OJ9LZ71IGOH/IMG_1909.JPG journal - In Patagonia Everyone will tell you the wind blows in Patagonia. Surfable waves on the lakes confirm.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684080210-EYMS74RI3R75APUK9O3B/IMG_1941.JPG journal - In Patagonia The west side of Chiloé Island faces the open Pacific. It's windwhipped and wild and save for the sheep, largely unpopulated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684091314-MWYXTGNQSC8JLACI74KN/IMG_1940.JPG journal - In Patagonia Mele kalikimaka. Our susperstar visitors—Sam and Bina. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629534386-K9W4MF9OZKCHYU69S8GL/IMG_1906.JPG journal - In Patagonia River valley outside Llifen, Futrono, Chile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512684025996-32MEGY8DYL7K7A47NZVM/IMG_1938.JPG journal - In Patagonia Wave check says: windy.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747250868-8CSXANU0JA5G4OESMC2I/IMG_1982.JPG journal - In Patagonia Sun worshipper.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747060947-MBL6GLH2N95QFDB7875I/IMG_1988.JPG journal - In Patagonia Guinea Fowl (domestic) as captured by our resident amateur birder. AKA guy chasing chickens around the yard with the camera at his feet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747372637-L8Z0UE6AK10RRAXCRC7I/IMG_1977.JPG journal - In Patagonia Above snow line outside Coyhaique.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511628926533-0CHXUJN2JRC2QPH9E2J0/IMG_1908.JPG journal - In Patagonia Our picnic game has come a long way from the canned anchovies and saltine sleeves of Bolivia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511630835592-0V2G6R39PS1HNW2YEDOI/IMG_1928.JPG journal - In Patagonia "Si no te gusta el clima, espera quince minutos." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744729595-6HVQU1EI5VAD78R44VOB/IMG_1953.JPG journal - In Patagonia Cerro Castillo—the Torres del Paine of the north. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512747440997-5UW8QCPEUF5NM3YSS08L/IMG_1979.JPG journal - In Patagonia Fjord escort.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511630904095-BZU3C9VGE72JB43BPWAH/IMG_1927.JPG journal - In Patagonia First customers of the season. As Patagonia's high summer season approaches, we are appreciating the last few weeks of quiet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512741975487-D9GCKWKC75W9MPAAXK1Q/IMG_1962.JPG journal - In Patagonia Endless inlets along the Carretera Austral.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1512744424867-2XXP0PL162YHU89Q7QPE/IMG_1952.JPG journal - In Patagonia Mountaintop picnic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1511629679976-MPI4BP4XSHNZ9B79J1E1/IMG_1919.JPG journal - In Patagonia Caught this meatball loitering outside the butcher shop. The owner/Señor kindly facilitated a photo shoot. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/10/26/argentina monthly 0.5 2017-10-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022681164-UP4S97Q5ZB1YKYY5Z3XE/IMG_1894.JPG journal - Just Deserts Aidan celebrating the one morning of the trip that he was ready first. As I rushed to finish brushing my teeth he shouted "Time!" six inches from my face, like a drill sargearnt. It was all rock top dance moves until discovering his two flat tires moments later. There is justice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028380917-J1XR15V66KZOVFS5SDDX/IMG_1843.JPG journal - Just Deserts Lagunas come in all shapes and colors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028083623-5C3TN0ZZXEB7XM39W5OB/IMG_1857.JPG journal - Just Deserts Our big panniers double as cushy camp seats. Pretty sure this is sacrilege among the gear nerd cyclists of the world but, our butts hurt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509026110865-D6JHN3JJN13E3FTCHFEX/IMG_1895.JPG journal - Just Deserts It's the simple pleasures.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022990424-MUY4U3D1XW2V8DK6AV9R/IMG_1882.JPG journal - Just Deserts Northern Argentina Viagriculture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509027563413-5HGXNK008UL3DIINYW58/IMG_1849.JPG journal - Just Deserts Utopia! A campground in the process of being built up by two wonderful travelers Martina and Johan. They intercepted us on the road and invited us back to swap stories and sleep under the grape vines. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028596829-93Q2AH1OVVYMM2H60QY6/IMG_1898.JPG journal - Just Deserts Laguna Colorada is Spanish for colored laguna. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022245134-LRL96MXLHSIK1I4KEJJF/IMG_1851.JPG journal - Just Deserts Camped in the wash. The wind is blowing, wild donkeys are braying and the sock tuck technique reduces ants in the pants.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022312562-1CMZZIP2EXAOHPJ2NAFW/IMG_1840.JPG journal - Just Deserts The view out the kitchen window.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509026868884-6M2TDBQR05YKIEHQEAF1/IMG_1897.JPG journal - Just Deserts A very cold campsite complete with a front yard's worth of penitentiary—ice stalagmytes that seem to grow upwards as they slowly melt down from their former snowdrift-selves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028791963-R95CPEY3NI109GSL1O9V/IMG_1899.JPG journal - Just Deserts The Lagunas Route through Southwest Bolivia is famous/infamous among cyclists for its beauty and challenging roads. Looking out across a blood red lake filled with pink flamingos and icebergs is almost worth spending eight days pushing through half a foot of kitty litter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509029719802-GEMU2BZPHVEVNB5AWEQG/IMG_1848.JPG journal - Just Deserts Not our best campsite. The slight rise behind the tent was the product of a half hour search for wind protection. The blowing grit comes from all sides but due to the tent's mesh, only the finest of sands coat you/your face in the night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022183191-29Z4ASWYPZ4GI74412HC/IMG_1862.JPG journal - Just Deserts Not quite making it to the top of the pass has its advantages/consequences. Sun soaked/wind whipped campsite at 15,200'. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509026166921-DFPNWZ0PW7719KKX6N2T/IMG_1866.JPG journal - Just Deserts Even though things seem remote, hundreds (dozens?) of jeeps filled with adventure tourists tore past us every day. Their only redeeming quality being that sometimes they offer goodies. We asked for water and got the Bolivian equivalent—2 liters of cyclist motor oil. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509023033898-9WKIKQ6XW7KKDL4YACX5/IMG_1858.JPG journal - Just Deserts Much of Northern Argentina is reminiscent of the American Southwest. This church in El Trigal does its best Santa Fe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028259047-RWNLQ9XU9DG35BNFIYKB/IMG_1852.JPG journal - Just Deserts Last of the remaining winter snow.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509023594804-8GY2DXGOP04XXY43HJP3/IMG_1876.JPG journal - Just Deserts Don't play with your food.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509025970615-7BSDW2HKNLZ49N18KDY2/IMG_1873.JPG journal - Just Deserts Made in the shade. When life squeezes lemons in your eye, crying is the best way to make lemonade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509023080356-M5JAN35Z73XWBV3X9CN7/IMG_1842.JPG journal - Just Deserts The fuzzy cacti of the upper Ruta 40. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509027953311-LARBSTL8M980NJ5RTJMC/IMG_1859.JPG journal - Just Deserts Dani Raúl and man disgusted at the photographer's request to say "queso." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509028888744-5YOUE9MJF13BXLHIW1RJ/IMG_1900.JPG journal - Just Deserts His and her gear sunning in an abandoned llama pen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022745994-NPWKMQUUYCVCVSLTO8P9/IMG_1868.JPG journal - Just Deserts Greenery—a welcome addition to the landscape. A vast river canyon lined with giant cacti and farmland offered up plenty of perfect camp spots. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509124314952-FTFWDX4RPDAV2FLC2FPM/IMG_1861.JPG journal - Just Deserts Chile/Argentina border. Paso de Sico. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509027010365-6T2WB4W21MDQ1XDBUS2T/IMG_1889.JPG journal - Just Deserts "Doing the dishes" consists of splashing a tiny bit of water around and then rubbing off visible bits with your fingers. Flavor for later, we say. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509124244949-GQ4HPO53Z143FKVD4A42/IMG_1874.JPG journal - Just Deserts Brown desert gettin' greener. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509029910424-S972Z697EWZWQQKYWHPK/IMG_1886.JPG journal - Just Deserts It's warm if you're out of the wind, but that place doesn't exist. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022895784-DS38ZQKYIM8Y0NX6RWR0/IMG_1893.JPG journal - Just Deserts Descending Ruta 40's Abra Del Acay in Argentina. As the country's highest road, you can't help but think it's going to be easier from here. The kilometer signs tick away the remaining distance to Ushuaia/penguins at the end of Ruta 40...4623 is still a very big number. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022210236-NBMF6OY5K11IGBF9AN16/IMG_1793.JPG journal - Just Deserts The Valle De Las Rocas is an incredible array of wildly eroded sandstone. Like a Rorshach Test, what you see in the rocks is a telling insight into your psyche. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022367256-0SZZJTK6LGEL7W2KNC66/IMG_1847.JPG journal - Just Deserts The long gaps between towns crossing the Chile/Argentina border meant inevitable supply shortages. The long gaps in anything but stupid oatmeal for breakfast mean you're-damn-right-we're-putting-the-cookies-in-there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509124905928-QMIVLOS4TYM5CAVCB18H/IMG_1902.JPG journal - Just Deserts Dusty alien landscape before the Argentinian border. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022793358-PJFLTVCIA507RTOMPJNJ/IMG_1890.JPG journal - Just Deserts From the Chilean border, we descended roughly 12,000' into Argentinian wine country—the landscape continually changing over the course of a few days. This was the last of the high, dry altiplano that we'd been riding since Bolivia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509022497603-DP01GS8SK4Q59MX4O98D/IMG_1879.JPG journal - Just Deserts Bandaid fix is no fix at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509023114530-0MRGQA1CXT3QX8AGDNK2/IMG_1860.JPG journal - Just Deserts I'll catch up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509027908560-792SN1O7G2K74T4HM2D9/IMG_1883.JPG journal - Just Deserts Wandering off towards a winery.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1509125005568-WHGP9KMHGKW1E4VEPSYL/IMG_1901.JPG journal - Just Deserts Andean Flamingos poking around a freezing Bolivian laguna. Whatever keeps those pink flapper toes warm, we want it. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/9/13/bolivia monthly 0.5 2017-10-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322127791-PSWCGZMLKUCLNT77DJ2C/IMG_1688.JPG journal - Bolivia Just enough snow to complicate the morning routine.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505325402284-0JZAQQDTTE8WK5VAIRRI/IMG_1697.JPG journal - Bolivia Huayna Potosi and a laguna to match. Off to the right is a now-closed ski area that once boasted the world's highest chairlift, though apparently it regularly made people altitude sick. Anyway, now closed and a not-so-interesting tourist attraction from La Paz. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505324683930-2PXF0KLJVZ6V1RAZVUD9/IMG_1742.JPG journal - Bolivia And on the way out, we opted for an early morning teleferico bump. A cold lift out of the city. Illimani frozen in the background. El Alto, the city's upper sprawling suburb waking up below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321460146-RNRBAS55ENSRGSRU4229/IMG_1694.JPG journal - Bolivia Laguna Chiar Khota, Condoriri Base Camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322079785-I8WFTKR65JNX35W57CKL/IMG_1702.JPG journal - Bolivia Ombraylieveable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321174108-VJP3TQN77GOUHRFG1328/IMG_1708.JPG journal - Bolivia Demanding breakfast in bed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506685538591-LCGNOBWYEGQVPRCSQ4CU/IMG_1766.JPG journal - Bolivia Our shortcut entering the Salar spat us out onto a (very) lightly traveled route. The infamous tour Jeeps were nonexistent, leaving us to pedal in a straight line in peace for two days. A tailwind both days and a dead calm camp heightened the salty surrealness. The sunset/rise/stars cooperated in sparkling, picture perfection. The world's largest glitter zen garden won us over. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505324782651-GWA7WN41V93IRJQ6LY16/IMG_1735.JPG journal - Bolivia Lake Titicaca shoreside Gremlin? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321312715-Z2PZ8DW9GA1NXSIJKZKS/IMG_1709.JPG journal - Bolivia A mere day's ride from La Paz, Condoriri is situated in the Cordillera Real and is said to be primo condor-spotting territory. We didn't see any this particular morning, but were plenty content to sit and stare at those glistening giants. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506685174431-CFE07REQ8SIO1I17C2XY/IMG_1748.JPG journal - Bolivia We'll just hide behind this rock here. A not-as-hidden-as-we-thought type of spot, but worth the perfectly framed view of Illimani (behind.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684865897-TUWQ89MGEJZA1BI5ERGR/IMG_1749.JPG journal - Bolivia Una tormenta on the horizon.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506901470096-BFJI4MJ4KRDI2GLYE44Z/IMG_1779.JPG journal - Bolivia Having camped at 16,000' in a mine's decaying raquetball court on the shady side of the valley, the first patch of sun warranted a "I don't want to do this anymore" handlebar lean. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322194738-LG9EU1S6DQ5WVAH1GJ7N/IMG_1698.JPG journal - Bolivia This little guy came to lunch with a group of four (humans) and was nibbling around long enough for Tara to politely ask to add another baby animal pic to the collection. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506703914698-VMGJM4HKBF9QJPPOV48H/IMG_1769.JPG journal - Bolivia Hopscotch till you drop.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684627016-3KQX0MKE7RPJ85KRKSUJ/IMG_1755.JPG journal - Bolivia Scenic warm up spot on the descent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321358971-C35JR6X7XQM6D7F3M5WA/IMG_1693.JPG journal - Bolivia There's both pleasure and pain in not knowing exactly where you're going. It's nice to not spend too much time dreading what's to come, but when what's to come involves one of the highest passes of the trip, we felt foolish for ignoring the elevation profile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322048768-CHT30VOCNDCNX5XVJK29/IMG_1689.JPG journal - Bolivia There's been discussion around getting a donkey. If we do, Aidan wants to name it O.D.—pronounced Odie. He can either be the Original Donkey or Donkey O.D. (Don Quixote) depending on his personality etc. This guy is all Original Donkey. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322450038-78M4BXSE6VZI7KHW225K/IMG_1713.JPG journal - Bolivia The ol' "where we gonna camp" neck crane. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684744718-WTJFB9SF1N0KT7M1I45Y/IMG_1752.JPG journal - Bolivia More in the way than on the horizon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506683644261-DTYSEKR5TOX6NVZLCZ0X/IMG_1760.JPG journal - Bolivia Culvert operation. The ground-striking lightning got a little close. Then it started hailing. Then a souped up Nissan spun out above us and took out one of the white and yellow cement posts in the sloppy roads. Turned out to be a savvy solution after all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322506223-N3WJZD3BE5Q1YTL8AI4T/IMG_1714.JPG journal - Bolivia A lot of Bolivia in a photo: wind-whipped altiplano, plenty of visible garbage, decaying old mud brick housing and the remnants of presidente Evo Morales's 2016 attempt to change the constitution and extend his term limits for a third time. Though not quite as visible, the "No" vote spreads their message by simply painting over the many pro Evo slogans. "No" won by the slimmest of margins in 2016. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506686002970-KQQJ0SO6T3VWHNKB302R/IMG_1763.JPG journal - Bolivia All by my selffff. Salar de Uyuni—world's largest salt flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321395386-ZKPA0I2TUGKJNZ8HBA2T/IMG_1705.JPG journal - Bolivia Many locals were curious where we were headed this day. The road—what remained of it—was a freestyled version through high mountain clay ridges. And where one switchback crumbled, a new straighter track would cut directly over the hill. Given the untracked snow, we must have been the only people to use the road in at least a few days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321730066-NDKKV519TS5JDLP4I5QG/IMG_1707.JPG journal - Bolivia We lingered around camp until almost noon—an uncharacteristic hour—before finally hitting the road. An extraordinary, peaceful place, the only people we encountered were a group of elder Norwegian men acclimatizing for an ambitious climb up Huayna Potosi (19,974') the following week. Enthusiastic and warm, they were a welcome reminder that the wacky adventures never really have to end. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506807880202-YK69D0O2RSJBMBFTLH9W/IMG_1762.JPG journal - Bolivia We couldn't ignore all the ingredients for a good Burning Man burn.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322672648-CODBDPZ81DX21Y3GE9HG/IMG_1690.JPG journal - Bolivia With the bikes covered in snow down below, connecting high mountain lagunas on foot was a nice change of pace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505324564483-JPBEF1AZ46NGRN3IVAUN/IMG_1737.JPG journal - Bolivia "The Death Road" so named for the hundreds of drivers whose lives it has claimed. Tara tempts fate with a highly acrobatic bike maneuver. Really though, with a new highway as an alt route to the city, it's a bunch of day-trippers from La Paz rattling down on mountain bike tours and a lot of brake squeezing. The real trial came as we rode up five steep miles of jarring cobblestone to the town on the other side of the valley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321841593-V3P16A9KYRV2UJ0B9QAU/IMG_1695.JPG journal - Bolivia You can see the road falling away on the right. At 16,000+ feet and miles from anywhere, it makes you wonder who is keeping tabs on whether or not the road remains passable for vehicles. Either way, great biking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505324634691-8B79BKAMN7F9L6VM7RNT/IMG_1741.JPG journal - Bolivia Our initial descent into La Paz coincided with their annual Dia de los Peatones—or Pedestrian Appreciation Day. Every preconceived notion we held about the congested nightmare of a city was shattered by the completely car-less and surreal ride through nearly fifteen miles of the world's largest street fair. Superlative not fact checked. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684961354-V1UQCSMBEV4ZSFWAENZE/IMG_1745.JPG journal - Bolivia Every stinkin' day.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506704210876-1PBD2PGT72JV9D878428/IMG_1756.JPG journal - Bolivia Illimani. Nearly 22,000' and the dramatic backdrop to La Paz. Here it is from the other side on this day's rare break in the clouds. Excellent campsite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505324454833-K975SNPJ2RI57D56DT9H/IMG_1740.JPG journal - Bolivia Lake Titicaca is really big as demonstrated by this fisherman who has paddled just out past the cold, early morning shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506686286939-4NCKA2JO4MTSQ8LCAX3W/IMG_1770.JPG journal - Bolivia Phil/Dad brought bad boy replacement tent stakes when he came to visit in Cusco. It took a (pre-packed) large rock and peristent force to penetrate the salty surface. And even then, they only made it an inch or so in which was just as well because it took a King-Arthur-effort to yank them out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506901580717-MDN5XXMEDLHFJQV4B8YK/IMG_1775.JPG journal - Bolivia Like bringing sand to the beach.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506704133059-XMVHCSKR6CBNFCUL9ZIP/IMG_1754.JPG journal - Bolivia Dinner prep: toasted quinoa, potsworth of veggies and a healthy dab of butter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321246535-KKLNG89D1Y59PDM10SRD/IMG_1691.JPG journal - Bolivia That chilly, but dramatic moment when the sun disappears from camp for the evening and lingers only as a backdrop, on the tallest peaks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321894469-N5OXV4GWAZVWV0OMT8PW/IMG_1710.JPG journal - Bolivia The windblown snow—although no more than three inches—combined with the mud layer underneath, refroze in the spokes, and then lodged in the fenders like fast-setting cement. We ended up dragging the bikes like two of the skinniest/heaviest toboggans through the home stretch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505322223255-CF8KGNTSO8L3QVPRTMU8/IMG_1706.JPG journal - Bolivia Blue steel cut oats. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1505321503718-BEUXIVHKS6EGX5EMNBCG/IMG_1711.JPG journal - Bolivia A fellow cyclist referred to alpacas as Andean long-necked teddy bears and now we can't see anything else. Unfortunately, they remain uncuddleable in their shyness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506685952947-OC5MEXW2DO6BZDQSHDQK/IMG_1767.JPG journal - Bolivia But also something less flashy for the folks, because today is Dory's birthday. Happy birthday, Mom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684528158-96AH2TH26WX2KTWFH5MK/IMG_1751.JPG journal - Bolivia In Bolivia there are often alojamientos in place of anything recognizable as a hotel or hostal. Typically an unused room in someone's house, you are essentially paying a few bucks for four walls and access to the family toilet. The rooms are bleak—a tiny twin bed and nada más. This one, however, included unlimited puppy play time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506684447890-YNDK1G8PD3UY11B1VH34/IMG_1758.JPG journal - Bolivia On day two of a four-day climb out of the valley and back to the Altiplano, we stopped in the town of Cairoma for a potential meal and resupply. We usually make a tienda selection based on the owner's friendliness and these two were particularly warm and welcoming. The woman took the time to prepare us a plate of food outside of regular eating hours while the husband stood by patiently as we discussed, in detail, every item on their tienda shelves. Meal planning based on available goods results in indecipherable English between Aidan and I, and blank stares from behind the counter. By sheer coincidence, the same two smiling faces would discover our not-so-secret wild camp spot later in the evening...in their field. Surprised, yet delighted to find us, they insisted that Aidan take photos of their bulls while they inspected our campsite. The woman couldn't stop laughing at the sight of our tiny stove and the man giggled as he poked at our flimsy tent walls. He warned us of cold weather and bike-thieving chicos before snapping flip phone photos and disappearing into the setting sun. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506807660940-PSCU6ZR2EUZ4R9S1PWAW/IMG_1699.JPG journal - Bolivia Cuteness closeup. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1506686045422-BW34TDR5AO7WGHW78ZJP/IMG_1761.JPG journal - Bolivia Salty.   http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/7/17/peru-iii monthly 0.5 2017-08-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035436696-SIX7GGRM57XGB218LIKB/IMG_1600.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide When the view out does the lunch. Splitting a single can of tuna leaves something to be desired.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034391241-USARC254C6EAEJJMIBSX/IMG_1631.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide The sheep, on the whole, didn't seem too thrilled with the process, but look at this little lady! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034996571-EEA7UBY9BJ0XSDFOOKBO/IMG_1594.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Roads are built for a purpose. Often, on the more remote roads, that purpose is to extract the resources that lie at their distant ends. When you dump-truck drive the same 20 miles for a lifetime, you think little of dusting lost gringos. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036194373-NA606G2OVM9IM5PHSWD8/IMG_1659.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Two tone under the blue dome.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036094954-JNV759SJE102L1XWHHGX/IMG_1620.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Sparkling cobalt lagunas and vaulting glaciers make for long lunch loiters. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298780879-78J4RRJYA8LYPVZBTPO6/IMG_1505.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Whispering Portland relocation offers into its velvety little ears. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298463341-RAPG8BJQ7GK3OPS182MJ/IMG_1531.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide On more than one occasion our long ascent into the seeming wilderness was interrupted by the existence of a multi-national mining operation scraping off the top of a mountain. Mina Raura is pictured, scarring an otherwise breathtaking landscape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034684914-DXEW6S6JMUMX7D0K9LBY/IMG_1649.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Resistance is futile.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502037925569-VPT0YJ2JJGV6S9O1UEPB/IMG_1557.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide One of the higher and harder passes of the trip. Hike a' biking on the steeper gravel sections made for slow progress, an inevitability of the Divide route. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035719911-XN5E9OMTM44NZF1UOA18/IMG_1623.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Sugar burger meets savage beard + blades. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298366018-2QCXMNTFZ6BJ13K2I903/IMG_1504.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Too cold to hold.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500299476395-AFFIXQM6M0E2VMC2400I/IMG_1537.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide The way, the truth and the life, we hear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035088818-H390449QI7G4E108OAYF/IMG_1603.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Miles outside of Huallay, on a desolate road, we were passed by a truck full of men in suits. When we rounded the corner, they were standing in the road waiting for us. What was surely a mafia assasination in the works turned out to be a group of local politicians looking to land some free gringo marketing. Here, Tara invites ALL fellow Americans to come to Huallay for the Independence Day celebration occurring in a few days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034520106-V3Y79IJM3UKTFNOSPLJS/IMG_1634.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Out with the old, in with the new...ear tags. Nervously awaiting their annual color update. Given the tedious nature of re-tagging hundreds of sheep and alpaca, it's no wonder the villagers make a day's fiesta of it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298665300-I5K652Z3RRJCK9HU3F7C/IMG_1539.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide It's strange to be in a place where the peaks of 17k' mountains aren't even referenced on your map. This scene copy and pasted to the horizon, mountains on mountains on mountains. Lagunas, too. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502037690574-A61PDG9OR0Z5KT6NE8IM/IMG_1530.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Most roadside interactions end with a smartphone-armed photo request. Everyone seems to have one. There's a photographer rotation that happens, ensuring everyone gets their photo with the gringos. New rule is that we always pull out our camera and ask the same. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503412973283-589MMIP8LD6G7WENC88F/IMG_1555.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide And lastly, this.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502025809359-N1BS8BZY6MUJYF3CFYVA/IMG_1662.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide The road switchbacking up to Punta Pumachocha topped out at 16,371', the highest (and most demanding) pass of the trip so far. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500299366955-F54PM140U6QE143F3GT8/IMG_1508.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide If you're into rocks, Peru's your place. You can admire their incredible morphing power to shape mountains, or spend what we imagine to be years piling them on top of eachother making stonewalled corrals. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500299318103-SORUQHVNDRQNGRCH5JUQ/IMG_1529.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Like living on the side of the highway without an on-ramp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036131437-M5TQPGNTHQASTWEOS660/IMG_1654.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide On the descent from Pumacocha Andean flamingos speckled the lake. An avid amateur birder, Aidan didn't get more than two steps off the road with his camera before they took off in fear. For those interested in a number of heavily zoomed, blurry flying flamingo photos, hit him up on WhatsApp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502063294466-6EEAAJ4APFROTP3543RR/IMG_1676.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Hood ornament.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035579007-CUAOA0FJIT7PYKHCKEQP/IMG_1621.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Our one year anniversary on the road coincided with Peru's Independence Day—July 28th. Bikes adorned with tiny, yet patriotic Peruvian flags, we ventured out for a peaceful camp rather than endure another brass band all-nighter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035666638-3RAJ87ONDY8AQ5PEQT5O/IMG_1651.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Kinkones, or sugar burgers as we call them, are a mysterious but delicious snack staple. Like a cookie-newton-muffin hybrid. Aidan warming his 'burg over the stove. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036936960-TV6IEQ3VERQPLSSO93FV/IMG_1606.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide At altitude, finding a strategic east-facing tent nook speeds up the morning thaw. Using his iPhone compass and mountain man instinct, Aidan has chosen many-a-early-sun spots. Or so he insists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035036220-9W769TW2TDKLVXR9NCWB/IMG_1615.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide These gentlemen pulled over for the requisite from where and to where line of questioning. When they hear a name they know, they inevitably gesture their hands towards the horizon proclaiming how close or far away we are. An underestimation every time, we've learned to double or triple what we're told. Tacoma is packed with alpaca hides headed for market. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298943631-U6QKX6CI1G26U99Q7IHN/IMG_1517.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide High altitude headrush.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034165255-FCI6Z63KCO88IU9ZLCOT/IMG_1645.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Sheep squad hard as flock. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503244392438-QXXRIMT4MKXX89M8A0HF/IMG_1506.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Aidan—in Diana's chair—adding scale to our kindergarten classroom campstite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503320345303-33RUT8UEDHQFFPCM4NH2/IMG_1614.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide July 28th is Peru's Día de la Independencia and much of the population ventures out to celebrate in the countryside. Just like the States, this means all sorts of city folk ambitiously following Google maps directions far out into the mountains. Two wheel drive Carollas, packed with picnics and families of six, spun their wheels in the gravel. Lost Limeans asked US for directions as to what lay ahead. And due to the 15,000'+ roads, sea level-accustomed vacationers were actively tossing their altitude sickness cookies. We helped where we could and even ditched the bikes to help push a car over the last pitch of the pass. Nice to get knocked out of the "most out-of-your-element tourist" position, if only for a day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503320125502-KOWJZ6N3JPT42QBNK5AY/IMG_1528.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Waiting for the feeling to return to extremities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298981184-GUF8T6ZTKYD1WR5BMNX6/IMG_1524.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide In addition to being iconic to Peru, llamas—pronounced yah-ma's—are known for being stoic and independent creatures. They hold their ground on the side of the road and maintain uninterrupted eye contact as we ride by. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502038418979-XX24M4B45CD1VW9KOQAD/IMG_1613.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Conversely, alpacas are shy, timid creatures that never let us get too close. No amount of affected voice coaxing convinces them otherwise. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503320509683-0LTQ13DZUYK0KNVBKLVY/IMG_1619.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Roads closed for construction are among our favorites. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036012245-44QHLU3G4F0PS2HQVS9M/IMG_1596.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Andrew explaining the pisco to chocolate milk ratio. 50/50. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298498785-M2GQS6FYDM5X97OPRYJH/IMG_1518.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide After the sun arrives but before the wind.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035216100-7LD4TQ0TRYQ9MVO9TKLI/IMG_1569.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Mounds of minerals. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035129873-DQBKE9C84XNUJEY1CWAY/IMG_1567.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Peru-sual. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036265112-CZ3O8JM06TQ38LX2ZAF8/IMG_1556.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Horizontal miles are nearly irrelevant against incessant vertical gain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298260982-R7WUJK4WG4ZRCKQQPUE0/IMG_1503.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide You don't have to go far to find a good camp pampa. Hidden by the subtle contours of surrounding hills, it's best to consider the sunrise locale when setting up as these fields are blanketed in a thick, morning frost. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502036315269-XF9J67H7NOD114V2AO73/IMG_1565.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Snack stops mandatory.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034760512-Z0Y50K716KVCLATVKMKZ/IMG_1635.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide The ringleader and master of ceremonies. He was the one to wave us over from the road. And put plastic cups of rum and Inca Kola in our hands. And ensure that we felt included. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298573438-0AKE9VIJEZXK0UDL2V7Q/IMG_1510.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Indulging a gawking gringo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034948781-OU72808K7E2F1WRZ4ZQ4/IMG_1597.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Empty promises.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035059490-ETRZTF1IB0DG6FWCWAXQ/IMG_1599.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Tara proved to be the better interviewee. I was asked to invite turistas to the town in Spanish for the camera, but, convinced they had just formally invited me to the festivities, I just repeated "muchas gracias" into the camera 2-3 times before they panned over to Tara. Muchas Gracias. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298854299-HH3E7BT0EPKFYQ856EZO/IMG_1521.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Our cheerful campesina host for the evening. Hut to the left is her bedroom and, to the right, the kitchen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034271550-Z0RIO57EMGXI9ZW1BK5I/IMG_1638.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Hooved peace sign.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502037765676-NFFC02MLC2RE5GTI88U7/IMG_1535.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide We met Rodney in Huallanca during the 2017 Inca Divide Bike Race. He's holding up the sadistic ultra marathon course map/elevation profile. The race ultilizes the Incan road network from Quito, Ecuador to Cuzco, Peru and totals 208,000' of climbing over 2,000+ miles. The race is fully self-supported and absolutely the most savage thing we've heard of. Out of money and food when we met him, Rodney gladly accepted our (meager) emergency snack stash of almonds and raisins and a few big chugs from my water bottle. We were not surprised to hear that he'd won the race six days later. What an animal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502049697470-W27IUPKSFWM205EA5UVB/IMG_1660.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Day six, no shower. Aidan finally asks to borrow the deodorant. Lipstick on a pig? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298413343-V6EGJ0848V5XCZ3ELFF4/IMG_1514.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Every morning and evening, the cooking process begins with a near-overflowing cup of tea. At over half a liter of hot liquid, the "tea challenge" effectively combats altitude while ensuring plenty of middle-of-the-night stargazing breaks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500298726518-ILCSG0C9FRR1XF1NPBDH/IMG_1532.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Frosted feces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502037845536-3S6KF7X4QA2IBBKN50UU/IMG_1607.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Classic Great Divide landscape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502061524216-WL8XD229VJKOVPBQLQTS/IMG_1657.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Dawn thaw.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034352669-L0NZAJPNOLKIXLDVREG3/IMG_1622.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide We felt included. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1503244266896-BG582XL31CB5D0MZGYO1/IMG_1610.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Sometimes it's too damn cold to cook outside and we fire up the stove from the comfort of the bags. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502035471736-572IQH60W1DA2XF621E8/IMG_1564.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Camping with new friends, Amanda and Andrew. Or "the Canadians." They've been riding since Alaska on a three year epic and have plenty of stories to share. In addition to carrying a violin and a guitar, they were also toting a liter of chocolate milk and a bladder of pisco. Commiserating together over a few stiff cocktails made it feel a little less frigid outside. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500299110721-N7E2L1GC0J2H217P6LTB/IMG_1520.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Current kitchen.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1502034598819-IUC3YOKID22642CG93QH/IMG_1639.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Gender roles are strictly adhered to. Men wrangle and hold the sheep while the women pierce/thread tassels through the ears. Tara nervously prepares her oversized needle in the foreground while Aidan happily adheres to tradition, taskless. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1500299253170-W5635F9P8UMKUOBUD8L9/IMG_1523.JPG journal - Peru's Great Divide Puya Raymondi is the world's largest Bromelid (pineapples are also Bromelids). They are both hardy and fickle, growing in the specific altitude range of 3000-4800 meters in Peru and Bolivia. Hardy, in the sense that they thrive in such a difficult environment. Fickle in that due to changes in climate these slow-growing, long-living plants are dying off at alarming rates. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/6/29/peru-highlands monthly 0.5 2017-07-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376249156-MBTOKTFK025D8F4JY1IA/IMG_1462.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Huascaran twin peaks—el Norte on the right—is the highest point in Peru. Worthy distraction on our laguna slog. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771695985-ZMMAWN2HN59N190E7ME7/IMG_1406.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Fateful timing to hit the final night of Pallasca's annual blowout celebration honoring San Juan Bautista Eight brass bands rotated nonstop. Fireworks exploded from 10AM to 6AM. Barely controlled lassoed bulls charged crowds of people. Beer sprayed. Bottles broke. A night to remember, but probably not repeat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771327637-GBEGWTXCB3852CNW22QZ/IMG_1411.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux It was gusting 40+ miles an hour on our descent. The wind from the ocean coming up the canyon into the mountains. The disappointment of reaching the end of one of the longest downhills of the trip, made better by a soul-lifting tailwind ride up the river. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771597731-5CURUFLLIH70BUBIQGLO/IMG_1404.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Really though, Peru's camping potential is endless. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374598428-DTM86AQQMJ2JYIOGL9GQ/IMG_1451.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The original pass is the low point cleft in the far ridge, but is currently (largely) unused following the construction of the world's highest tunnel—15,525 feet. Many people cycling this loop go up and over, but the whiteout conditions and fresh snow sent us through the tunnel instead—one of the most surreal experiences of the trip. The tunnel is almost a mile long, downhill, and dripping with all kinds of down-the-back-of-the-neck surprise waterfalls. It is pitch black except for the blinding "light at the end of the tunnel." What nobody tells you about that "uplifting" phrase is that if the light at the end of tunnel is too bright, you can't see anything in between. Our spelunking style headlamps proved all but useless and we just rumbled through the dark waterfalls like moths to a flame until we eventually popped out the other side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376438638-Z8QCZT30BOQOWWENNRY4/IMG_1429.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux How insufferable are couples that dress alike?   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375298104-E254O3N955I5ON3ZW8L4/IMG_1453.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Aidan snaking his way down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771521456-4EX1WBJK3AI3GE4OD2P4/IMG_1405.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux We made fast friends with a French couple sharing campsites, meals and stretching techniques over a couple days in Northern Peru.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376331184-E4CHF4CS7A1UXDACXLO2/IMG_1449.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Huascaran Norte, on the right, has a tragic history. In 1970 during a 7.9 earthquake, the front portion of the mountain broke off and buried the towns of Yungay and Ranrahirca in a wave of ice, rock and mud in less than five minutes, killing some 20,000 people. A beautiful, but ominous backdrop for those towns. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375187853-APY93NI7F6LFG3SFDDI1/IMG_1461.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Andean Lupin produces an edible bean (chocho) that is claimed to be the next Andean superfood. It's been a good run, quinoa. Big mounds of beans line village street stalls, typically dressed up with onion, lime, cilantro, tomato, salt and something spicy. A perfect pannier snack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374658514-TV6MGGOT7CX178QO8HDX/IMG_1469.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux From the ridge where the pass cuts through you can see the valley floor directly below—maybe two miles away. All told, it takes 8+ miles of bumpy, dusty road wiggling to get down. Best to stay on the inside edge while peak gawking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376610048-3HPH84W03SFLE11IMWSQ/IMG_1455.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Frosty color pops atop Punta Olimpica. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374236054-R8F22SAF5ITOQ6E1WIW5/IMG_1445.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Nearly to the top of our third and final pass on a 5-day loop through Huascaran National Park's Cordillera Blanca. Easily one of the most anticipated sections of our trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771977664-XZFVKN9QKMZOMJHRRTQK/IMG_1401.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux And when the conversation dwindles, pose for photos. We posed for a lot of photos. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771723106-G0AMR22ZZLSIRSEQ85X1/IMG_1393.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The guys played from sunrise to sunrise, with at least two bands playing different songs, simultaneously, at all times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498772485052-XIFQ65DB3G376EVRZONA/IMG_1419.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux A trip milestone and nice moment atop the pass where we caught our first glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca. XO, A+T https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771283503-798LBZS0V9WXBX8HUB9W/IMG_1395.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux From the internet: "Espostoa lanata (= Woolish Espostoa) is a species of cacti of the genus Espostoa. Its common names are : Peruvian old man cactus, cotton ball cactus, snowball cactus, snowball old man." So, yeah Old Peruvian Man Ball Cactus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499524639841-7Y8HB3HT6YP3X5VEHZSG/IMG_1468.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Burros help with treks in the Cordillera Blanca. Their indifference to schlepping serious weight around is an inspiration.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376109664-TCRYGQDW7KR4LI5FAPNO/IMG_1459.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux All this + instant noodles + spices = delicious soup https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771244955-UQL88K989Q4LCMS3BSQK/IMG_1396.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux An absurd afternoon.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375098514-WNU6HDMTQIAYSXGE02I7/IMG_1452.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Color-coordinated.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374847694-NVQ26JLP2OC54JDCTVVL/IMG_1458.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The snow finally started to stick to the road a couple hundred feet from the top of the pass. We pushed the bikes through most of it to avoid any serious slip outs and were fortunate not to share any switchback corners with the 2-wheel drive tractionless Toyota Corollas that make up the majority of Peru's taxi fleet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771818976-77JSLUPD8ZYTHR6FSWYW/IMG_1417.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The stretched out version of the switchback.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374520477-KPMOW235ABQ6309TZ8QD/IMG_1440.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Get in where you fit in.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374786202-G8CZ30J7URC1HRSGCKNT/IMG_1467.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Pan de agua—bread made without butter, similar to a fluffy pizza crust—is an Andean snack staple. 1 sol ($.30) will get you a bagful. Lightweight and versatile, it's the energy/carb vehicle we've been searching for since the death of tortillas in southern Guatemala. Our very own banana bread pictured above. Recipe: one piece of pan torn in half with a banana shoved inside. The possibilities are endless. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375641023-ZOIRBX0TMJJ5RQPVPCPM/IMG_1430.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Falls like snow, soaks like rain https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375526350-J2QGS8UBGWX59X1PX97U/IMG_1438.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux We rode all but ten miles of the famed Huascaran Circuit. The ten miles we spent in the back of the truck, sharing chocolate bars and conversation, allowed us to skip a really nasty section of the road, littered with large rocks, countless holes and aggressive horseflies. The nice folks who dropped us here said that the state of the road was criminal and that the government officials responsible should be in jail. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771384323-Y89437U7O7GPZ385ESZC/IMG_1412.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Connecting Huamachuco to Angasmarca by way of some dirt and endless farmland. In these surrounding hills there are numerous unexcavated ruins with signs that, when roughly translated say: "There is important archealogical stuff here, we just haven't gotten around to digging it up and making a big deal of it yet." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498772062811-XQ0VS3I9X3TGID34U9KM/IMG_1392.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The Canon del Pato's 35 one-lane tunnels are exhilarating on a bicycle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375364069-9G3EXSGJHDUCEFBEA9DJ/IMG_1454.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux High drama palette on the descent from Punta Olimpica to Chacas. After nearly 24 hours of rain and snow, we were pleasantly surprised by a great hostel in town and—thanks to a heavy Italian influence—the best pizza of the trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374916769-FBTRO5EGXWXD6B0IYGAI/IMG_1436.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux There's an unspoken agreement to pull the cameras out during the not-so-fun moments as well. Moody photos result. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499376037009-2X7Y1A8RSLYGA3X0OQBP/IMG_1465.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Heating up water for a night bottle—a sleeping bag essential at altitude—according to Tara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499375936448-CQ0PAJFDJLD2GPJ010OU/IMG_1448.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Pampa, a near perfect camping surface once kicked clear of rock and cow patty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771228751-BSSID937NKXQ5OXLJCWY/IMG_1416.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux We don't often ride this late in the day. Because, the reality of magic hour is that sad, totally dark freezing hour is mere minutes away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771677460-Y8JRUWEV9YULOXFUUA90/IMG_1398.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux T-bone and the trombones.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771773214-A3I4PBS8KVT1CWZGYX57/IMG_1403.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux With lines extending far beyond the photo frame, the sheer magnitude of Peruvian landscapes is mind blowing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374722595-FYC7URBG8BDYKDQO1FJB/IMG_1432.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The dryer side of the Punta Olimpica pass. We paused for a couple photos and numb-limbed jumping jacks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498772464060-GBOQJVKR6Q6QFPDNUZD9/IMG_1418.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux The French—Aymeric and Valentine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374977907-HVO2F9ONQBWYFE7DMYN4/IMG_1437.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Moody photo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498772029269-HUX7CYXLDUWXOU4D5KIU/IMG_1394.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Sister cactus to the man ball.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499524577390-UB4LZLL90YZLZNPCGEP2/IMG_1422.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux From mountain green to desert brown, all in a big day descending.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771304303-VZD87JN3R6LM0WITDF4F/IMG_1397.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Some campsites seem more discreet when set up in the dark. Part of the fun of wild camping is the hiding out, which on this morning meant ducking for trucks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771632758-00RWM0FCLNYH5H9I1M3X/IMG_1415.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Timeout amidst a 14-hour stint of nonstop Spanish conversation over the sound of brass bands, braying bulls and constant fireworks (bombas). A nice gentleman gifted Tara this kerchief so she could blend in better with the caballeros. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771463376-7VB95DB0R37A1FW3HSHA/IMG_1402.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Ricardo of Llapo has six daughters, fifteen grandchildren, is 80 years old and gifted us two avocados. We rule at asking questions with numbers as the answers.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771931089-MCKHTPZH47SE744BP5NO/IMG_1414.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Blown minding.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771493119-UKT6EMVKGSH3XWAU8QWK/IMG_1413.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Every small town, or pueblito, has its welcoming party of plaza dwellers. We usually make friendly, brief conversation and then ask for the nearest food joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498771424079-FBRYORV5F2XU1O5W7Y0A/IMG_1391.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux No guardrail, single lane, and 15 miles into a 30 mile descent and someone decides they need to stick a sign in the dirt as an FYI. Peru is the best.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374382774-8EF1GTSARQKK31TIU83B/IMG_1431.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Laguna 69 at first light. A campout and subsequently early start ensured we'd beat the busloads of tourists. The alarm sounded in the tent at 4:45AM after a restless night's sleep in a field. A crazy cow had kept us up most of the night with irrational behavior—grazing a tight circle around our tent, tearing into the garbage, chomping Aidan's helmet and knocking our bikes over countless times. At one point, Aidan lept from his sleeping bag and said, "No, no, no, not okay." The cow had pressed his snout into the triangular plastic window of our tent, fogging it up as he peeked inside. Each event involved chasing the cow off for a hundred yards or so, making convincing "heaw" noises hoping this time she would stay away. 4:45 came far too soon and we thought pretty seriously about "just another hour" inside our cozy sleeping bags. One glimpse outside at the shock-clear starry sky was all the motivation we needed to shake the ice from the tent, toss on a pot of coffee and start the hike. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1498772369544-ALBWNTPGUJQFGC1VU3OK/IMG_1420.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Peruvians love to tell you about the diversity of landscape and climate in their country. And it's true. On this day we left green mountains for sand stone hills and colorful, mineral rich streams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1499374302208-RSW0YRBTOQDUK1RQOXZM/IMG_1447.JPG journal - Peru Part Deux Sitting at roughly 15,000 feet, the Laguna 69 hike is surprisingly hard. Being one of the most popular tours booked from Huaraz, we had written it off as a serious challenge. The degrees of discomfort on the faces of the (unacclimatized) tourists making their way up confirmed that we were not alone in our surprise. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/6/5/peru monthly 0.5 2017-06-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496777831879-1NS2ZBJEEOGNA19AO1PC/IMG_1278.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Amazonas Departmento river crossing, en route to Bagua Grande. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496778338578-4CDPFG6T5TFBS1IGKT75/IMG_1283.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru More of a mountain person. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497447946806-L2P6DG4GAUAIPSEFBR43/IMG_1338.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Sore-shouldered and happy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496844765240-LMTPUIM0MHVYIQVWLPJ4/IMG_1324.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Most tiendas are just named after whoever's front porch you're sitting on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497447966293-S2DQD341459YTUOLIL9I/IMG_1335.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru From the pier to the point is about forty minutes on foot, or four on a surfboard when the SW swell stars align. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496774616328-BBYOHY1YVX0VONH5YQ40/IMG_1297.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Downtown Kuelap. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496749598741-2VPR5BEQJQ3075NU2VME/IMG_1309.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Somewhere along the 30-mile descent from Calla Calla Pass to the canyon floor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496844501713-LCFEATTTKT6RIMAFNTFH/IMG_1325.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Lust in translation. Namballe, Peru. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448396205-D89M7E6LBJTC4Y8ZSYIK/IMG_1327.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Fishing fleet. Puemape.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496750295926-HS1H0H04LPAEXG2KPIMV/IMG_1287.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Some 9,000 feet below Calla Calla Pass flows the Marañón River, the largest source to the Amazon River. Peru loves its superlatives, deeming this canyon the "Deepest in the world." Our legs believe it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496777753337-1HDILL7BZYXT8MXRU9GW/IMG_1274.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Translation: Don't hate me just try to forget me. [Rambo break] I am guilty of your tears. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448642454-LD1FY9SDK03T5YUFYG81/IMG_1331.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru And lastly, tricked. Get on that and I'll take your photo... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496842398115-EXDYZZUDC3PW3QVZQ9LL/IMG_1323.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Please don't let the dogs out.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496776789268-2JYFR30EXCAG28VQLHJL/IMG_1302.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Cultural detour in Nuevo Tingo. We rode the newly-opened teleferico to the ruins of Kuelap. Seen by Peru's tourism board as a future rival to Machu Picchu, the shining infrastructure will be well-suited to mega crowds, eventually. Until then, the formalities are overkill, and the gondola attendants, very bored. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448824426-YNZW7JD15GFO2T8C0EDM/IMG_1333.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Pacasmayo pier. Those boats are delivering the goods to cevicherias all over town. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496782157201-8NGRBN7H6H3X6JVY1K2K/IMG_1322.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Moments after rolling out of camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496749518657-NXY5PBUDG9ECF901IL3F/IMG_1277.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru There are over 550 circular structures on site, home to some 3,000 inhabitants back in the day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448471056-M81VAZNE4QTXBZIIEDQY/IMG_1336.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Peru's iconic mode of transport. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448159014-LD8TB5INAZIH037BSWCK/IMG_1334.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Evidence of busier beachfront times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496781543859-3M2LPWSWH48JXAHWEO3C/IMG_1321.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru It's amazing the power of the American Dollar.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448303378-IJ96VNALDZNQK2RFJEQV/IMG_1328.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Van rides down the road to better surf. Back in wetsuit waters. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496704709127-GRXRF4AJUO9KD7SC4M1T/IMG_1268.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru The mellowed road grades of Peru are a welcome change from Ecuador's sawblade-like elevation profiles. ^^^^^^ The climbs here, although not as steep, are really, really long. We like to think the patience of Peruvian road builders has larger cultural implications, but that's entirely imagined and the type of place your mind wanders to amidst a [really, really] long climb. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496749895862-LUX060AVPEEMZGW6KSF9/IMG_1303.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Camp kitchen explosion.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496776477833-21M582Q0KC03DO4QTF87/IMG_1311.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Mid-morning snack. Humitas are a tamale-like dream made from fresh corn and lard, typically served with a bowl of fresh ají—homemade hot sauce. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496781703549-JFIOOMB9N5ZMI37LDPZF/IMG_1318.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Kickstands.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496749708927-IH6KP3H10F2S0LGWRQMP/IMG_1308.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Flat surfaces are hard to come by. Diligently preparing an onion/beet/sweet potato/quinoa one-potter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496750038870-JBACHSHZS5G0B1PR25OJ/IMG_1269.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Although land-mined with cow shit and air mattress-popping twigs, an excellent campsite overall. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496748435528-I93VH8I3Z0L74QV9Z6HP/IMG_1286.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Let your freak flag fly. Also, your rain fly dry.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496775135223-LHX4N2B8USNP5GKM9XHI/IMG_1298.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Kuelap is a fortified city built sometime in the 6th century. Aside from a knee-buckling hike, that road on the other side of the valley used to be the only way to access the ruins. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448677720-RL3A6XG47O9HEQS9HMJ0/IMG_1332.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Love the I-do-what-I-want paint jobs of Latin America.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496774789860-V25VZ9QFCUKXXH0WFGNU/IMG_1300.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Very different from the highly-manicured Machu Picchu, this place has been overgrown with tree roots and foliage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448015570-PENNTPQR8IG0XPK4UONP/IMG_1329.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Like Baja but further South. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496749321729-8XGYCHRZTY01DR00K3DR/IMG_1273.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Freshly dewed mud/manure made for a slippery push back to the road from camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1497448090244-EMAG4PWF27SGVB50TOP3/IMG_1326.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Fisherman. Puemape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496750472187-L6L46VFNW33RUN1MM1Q5/IMG_1289.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Security entrance.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1496778455477-XCL3X0422692MV4HMTKY/IMG_1284.JPG journal - First Leg of Peru Riverside campsite thanks to a pin dropped from a fellow Portlander. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/5/15/ecuador monthly 0.5 2017-05-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494967391672-6TNTT77BVTSXCUS5SJMV/IMG_1239.JPG journal - Evacuador To be clear, we've got one gas can propping the log, the other firing the blowtorch and a roaring gas-fed wood fire cooking god only knows what.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878416823-BN4ZVH7ECUT8LQVGWTMQ/IMG_1190.JPG journal - Evacuador Volcano Cotopaxi in 3/4 of its glory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876766170-YRN894GDQ2BY8NX62Q5J/IMG_1146.JPG journal - Evacuador Breakfast with Lewis and Brandy in the ranger station's not-so-windproof gazebo. (El Angel Reserve) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494877334290-K7I0B7QMH6IYVRA01E19/IMG_1185.JPG journal - Evacuador Our totally incredible friend sent along new, decidedly un-destroyed sunglasses to replace the ones Tara ran over with her front tire. And the ones Aidan scratched solid. Thank you, Cale. - Dale Earnhardt on a bicycle https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495305650846-IAB9ZLJ9WFEDX347VX4S/IMG_1243.JPG journal - Evacuador Google: Do donkeys bite?   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878641856-IPSZZE4X0FAHNMU9CFD3/IMG_1210.JPG journal - Evacuador Sea level energy at 13,500+ feet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876878248-KU1E6IJVWYT8J3V9F0NI/IMG_1202.JPG journal - Evacuador Verdict: Need more layers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878971220-4DLGB2FZW82SCJ41CO7W/IMG_1195.JPG journal - Evacuador We're technically at the tail end of Ecuador's rainy season, which is little consolation when it's actually raining. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878335533-KUZVIXGV3YHIRLVXP2PB/IMG_1192.JPG journal - Evacuador Cotopaxi's last major eruption was some 138 years ago, but it's been active as recently as 2016. A mere 30 miles from Quito, it's apparently the most monitored volcano in South America. The excessive evacuation route signage had us calculating if a fully-loaded bicycle could Dante's Peak its way to safety. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876836307-NZBUAPBP0C40S54CPEOE/IMG_1207.JPG journal - Evacuador With swaths of South American countries existing at high, and very high elevations, altitudinal zonation (and not really latitude) determines an area's climate. Above the cloud forest, above the tierra fria, is the páramo. Beginning around 12k feet, it's perpetually wet, grassy, and basically looks like aliens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878908633-KXYZ18AYUK2C2Y30OV01/IMG_1214.JPG journal - Evacuador It's an honor when friends use their valuable time off to come and visit...IN THE SOUTHERN FREAKIN' HEMISPHERE. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494966746715-M1KIB9J5HM1YV6UZGKRU/IMG_1236.JPG journal - Evacuador Like your typical patchwork quilted agricultural landscape, if that quilt were laid over someone especially lumpy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495305697981-NB4TH2HRPZBSF3LJB0GT/IMG_1242.JPG journal - Evacuador Hostel takeover: Laundry, coffee, charge, shoe de-stink, etc. We're getting our dollars' worth. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494967528440-AEU98IHAG7CIYKDBAPZS/IMG_1208.JPG journal - Evacuador Quito down below. In proper tourist fashion, we only had one bottle of water and a sleeve of crappy crackers between the four of us, ruling out the option to summit Volcan Pinchincha, topping out at almost 16,000 feet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878475116-0Z6AXNJRSWXCJZVTRHGU/IMG_1198.JPG journal - Evacuador The highland hearty few.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878144055-52TBDSIDBFKC8VCR02LO/IMG_1188.JPG journal - Evacuador Tundra, erosion paths and eruption blasted boulders. Cotopaxi is otherworldly cool.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495309600805-132887SP5XEGTQ4QZ2U8/IMG_1209.JPG journal - Evacuador B's at the basilica. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876665330-DGSSPU8K30A6YJN1X6PH/IMG_1200.JPG journal - Evacuador The velvet leaves of the frailejon are perfectly evolved to capture the moisture in the clouds that constantly blow through the high-altitude paramo. Sort of like eyebrows on a bicycle ride, say. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876926484-Z1NDGQ1FD1R5N27QIIP9/IMG_1204.JPG journal - Evacuador Fried frailejon stump.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878073811-F8HMTYHB9CJ8KNR1IEYZ/IMG_1189.JPG journal - Evacuador Oatmeal again, huh? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876639293-ACF93JBRUT4RFAEVTUEI/IMG_1145.JPG journal - Evacuador Proof of life, wedding greeting, token foggy photo. All good reasons to hand over the camera and get one of the both of us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495307019016-LG2D9F8AGT4VT8OFKPLL/IMG_1213.JPG journal - Evacuador Literally footsteps (and a tram ride) outside of Quito.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876684138-2HM6X684QPAJIO5Q8WN7/IMG_1139.JPG journal - Evacuador All the layers for the early morning descent.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878503289-FV2L9809AQRV4U1E9LN1/IMG_1186.JPG journal - Evacuador Are leggings pants?   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878381651-HLTO3OPRHYUBIIYXJQB5/IMG_1196.JPG journal - Evacuador Andean Lupine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495308869485-OTQJY0XHFLAJGAZ51OTO/IMG_1187.JPG journal - Evacuador Early morning romp about on the volcano. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494877188996-HYTVS0PPAG8CYES1LM3B/IMG_1201.JPG journal - Evacuador The bizarre Frailejones of El Angel Ecological Reserve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878533630-A99AOA1GOT8OQ9TH6DAA/IMG_1140.JPG journal - Evacuador Our first official visitors came all the way to Quito to help Tara celebrate her big day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876803545-QYIC8UJUNJC3O5VTUBKK/IMG_1144.JPG journal - Evacuador Puddle navigating requires one brave soul and some steady-handed followers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876618547-8AZ89MK5OVP4991AOLU5/IMG_1142.JPG journal - Evacuador Frailejons are the Muppets of the cactus world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494966727290-7FF7OMQ72G91IJHSLZYS/IMG_1238.JPG journal - Evacuador God only knows what.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494876733773-FITMV75I4WSKIXTYBAOL/IMG_1143.JPG journal - Evacuador Only a few miles from the Colombian border, up past the farmlands, the landscape completely changes to something close to a cactus'd Wyoming. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495309687650-DSJMW3XK8ND8I76IE4W4/IMG_1199.JPG journal - Evacuador Important to note: The fedora'd gentleman (center) staged us with instruments and insisted on taking our picture for Facebook (or "face" as it is referred to here.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1495309649079-6CIE7RXZLVXNG19TIY9L/IMG_1218.JPG journal - Evacuador She said no to the birthday tiara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494877286058-4T4LDLZ5EG1XQI5XTBG8/IMG_1203.JPG journal - Evacuador She takes hydration really seriously... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1494878101204-2EH9VS0AZA910F3893GN/IMG_1191.JPG journal - Evacuador Stealth campsite bike cleaning. The rain vs. lube struggle is real.   http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/5/3/a-longish-day monthly 0.5 2017-05-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812882990-Y2W22T7HBA3N2BTZLY2R/IMG_1099.JPG journal - A Longish Day Location tag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813148800-GIGWBHM6SJ1BG1WJGLKP/IMG_1134.JPG journal - A Longish Day A few hundred meters below "La Linea", the divide separating the Cordilleria Central between Salento and Toché. Limited company, plenty of good eating. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813104960-7V4BJR1Y1K5TSKVH6JEW/IMG_1131.JPG journal - A Longish Day Sure, it may seem a little unnatural, but you try leaving them hanging on the thumbs up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493815030195-HLKQMGPGVB92Y15DAMHI/IMG_1137.JPG journal - A Longish Day La Carbonera: The more bristled sister valley to the famous Valle de Cocora. Where the Cocora Valley hosts some manicured 900 palms, La Carbonera is estimated to hold over 2 million. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813668864-G2EYQ18NJ8W30LVR3K5G/IMG_1112.JPG journal - A Longish Day ¿Que son esos?   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493817815545-ABJ259TL3I5M742FSXWD/IMG_1167.JPG journal - A Longish Day This is an accurate visual representation of the ice cream vendors to people ratio in Colombia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812989885-VT2038CYO3MD454KLMQ6/IMG_1123.JPG journal - A Longish Day Although the same expression can be spotted during a myriad of unfavorable situations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493814190210-MXPJL2EOZU0EMI5OT67J/IMG_1105.JPG journal - A Longish Day The most scenic road to date. A bold statement that we stand by. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812848267-0O3WISGN9SF01FUTQALD/IMG_1103.JPG journal - A Longish Day We take turns being super unenthusiastic. Aidan in the morning, pre-coffee... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813037978-AR5Q3DNNHOK6Y8Z75U0E/IMG_1100.JPG journal - A Longish Day Full Spring 2017 puppy palette.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813377698-F0SY91SFOUKT16AU3FPO/IMG_1133.JPG journal - A Longish Day The wax palms host tillandsias on their long trunks that end up looking like odd knuckles joining sections of the impossibly tall trees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493814096346-5RATX4A1J79CN4V7PJ3U/IMG_1115.JPG journal - A Longish Day Like how you think they smell.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813730426-1KPNM5ACLI4O2ITHOSS2/IMG_1114.JPG journal - A Longish Day Long Haul Truckers https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813985901-Z93PFI2RT0MNYTH9LSJO/IMG_1110.JPG journal - A Longish Day When you eat so many Oreo's that you start to match the packaging. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813581140-UHVFDIYEP2W94O11Z0GI/IMG_1108.JPG journal - A Longish Day Good choice.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813527477-BCDVHSYIV2D1TUIIG656/IMG_1097.JPG journal - A Longish Day You didn't call fives.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493817642809-874PEWWRZ8TEM06E0IJR/IMG_1166.JPG journal - A Longish Day Our Neiva WarmShowers hosts took us on a walking tour to taste the street sweets and see the mighty Río Magdalena. Scooby came even though he was asked not to. The dog, not the kid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812730481-HWQA1W85QGWLCOZN91UR/IMG_1117.JPG journal - A Longish Day Our last day of Colombian riding. She put on quite a show. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493817350249-2X31BAWQOQ9BFL72GF4D/IMG_1168.JPG journal - A Longish Day WarmShowers host, and owner of dog who has a new hairdress from the hairdresser, Andres Felipe! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493815566118-IERP3BHO74737B4B7ZHO/IMG_1098.JPG journal - A Longish Day Fruit stand slurp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812795489-T87WOIDGKJ43E8S5C5CX/IMG_1109.JPG journal - A Longish Day Looking back to check the progress. An inevitability of mountain river crossings is the trip alllllll the way down to the bridge at the bottom of the valley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493815916762-KW1Y2LKNHVO0W24CFJGO/IMG_1147.JPG journal - A Longish Day It's a long way to the top, if you want to get to Ecuador.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493817481533-VTYJWH1ZN8INQJ5D8WYH/IMG_1165.JPG journal - A Longish Day There's a restaurant in the backpacker enclave town of Salento called "Brunch." It is, as it should be, owned by a guy from Portland. At the register, there is a money trap in the form of homemade jars of peanut butter. We bought several. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493817308425-4FW73K89JMV6HBHCITY1/IMG_1164.JPG journal - A Longish Day Right smack in the midst of Colombia's second rainy season, mudslides are a scary and constant reality in the mountains. A tough, post-storm push. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493812934868-6HJUELEHU5RPIWKKCMLG/IMG_1136.JPG journal - A Longish Day ...and Tara at the end of most days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813279748-8WWSI9LJIYQYA4Y60OO4/IMG_1119.JPG journal - A Longish Day Avoiding the PanAm en route to Pasto and staring down the "peaceful road tax" as it looms large up ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1493813480276-UN4SASPS4NT477NH7101/IMG_1096.JPG journal - A Longish Day The variety of fresh produce in the mountains is typically pretty limited. This well-stocked fruit stand came as a pleasant surprise. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/3/31/colombia monthly 0.5 2017-05-11 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491427177651-ZURN9SM0BM9FJR2XD8IP/IMG_0928.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Coupla' beanpoles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989014935-XI7K1YL2H7GH1ZXIQSW0/IMG_0867.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Bros.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490985741724-ZIFWU40LSMKLTOITEPPO/IMG_0799.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Simple roadside snack of tinto, eggs and fried potatoes. More green in the decor than our diets these days.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490992229678-R3TTEF7FFS2CS2VHZ36W/IMG_0868.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Tough enough to justify one of these bad jammas. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490990255710-AD1HCT5V2H87M1AAB6V0/IMG_0861.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Luis has been on the road in Colombia for 48 years, as he put it. His pride of country is proportional to the flag he chooses to fly.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491428259993-J10DHRXRUU0YMFIB4O98/IMG_0926.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia If you want the tree to look taller, trim the bushes around it. They don't call 'em wax palms for nothing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989869355-EZDGEDXDV7PZQAEZ5TXO/IMG_0857.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia It was a gamble on whether or not the barber would get a kick out sorting out this particular challenge.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490991882968-23WTEV9X7F1F3YDZQ5KP/IMG_0858.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Taking the scenic route in Colombia comes at a seriously steep price. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490981949251-GL6EI44IY6F9Y567ED8B/IMG_0797.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia ....Andes spent.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986373930-IC3YHZ5F8SP7TY8JXSUT/IMG_0812.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Yer buñuelos are showing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490985899618-1UO6QZJ3CSSHW20DY8CF/IMG_0915.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Colombia's coffee triangle, the Eje Cafetero, is a stunning configuration of breathtaking topography, agricultural abundance and the impossibly charming colonial pueblos that always seem to be located at either the veryyyyy top or veryyyyy bottom of any given valley. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490987599586-D9AEEG48VD5N5RUJ5LX7/IMG_0795.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Daniela and Lili - Quite possibly our most gracious WarmShowers hosts to date. We arrived soaking wet and they welcomed us into their home with good food, conversation and even a little Salsa 101. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491428876538-ORZLOV2HA9HRUG7C60H9/IMG_0929.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Roadside and completely wrecked, a generous Colombian family offered us space in this long-since-closed restaurant. Easily one of our most colorful campsites. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490992494020-RMDI4GX0AH7A20SPAMPZ/IMG_0919.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Fellow bike traveler Kate staring down at the navigational bare essentials: roads and verbs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490992111017-M03WMJ2HXRIHWCRTJ97S/IMG_0863.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Simon of Taxi Tandem Tour is riding [a tandem] with an empty seat, picking up passengers as he makes his way south to Argentina. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490987221450-QSCTKRUH2RXYLGD506WT/IMG_0854.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia At roughly 12,000 feet of climbing, one of our toughest days yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491427081236-I5HU4DW2XT8MIDI1NP7V/IMG_0924.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia While the wax palms of the Cocora Valley are natural, the surreal scene along the valley floor is not. Grazing cattle have kept all aspiring palm seedlings at bay while the existing trees continue to grow to almost two hundred feet tall. The resulting landscape is one of those bittersweet beautiful accidents, where the contrasting trees are actually the last remnants of a once healthy forest. Of course, in the meantime, the grey trunks against the impossible green make for some incredible photos. That, or a super challenging frisbee golf course. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490991277453-CJ0XZJ3YGHFNOAM9I1HY/IMG_0860.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Fredonia fire station pup, Toby. The Bomberos (firemen) are notorious for opening their doors throughout Central and South America to traveling cyclists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490982252438-M7R52KZVT1H8DBU1AI2U/IMG_0801.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Though Colombia's dark history has contributed to its dangerous reputation, our experience has been anything but. At times, it seems individual Colombianos take it upon themselves to singlehandedly reverse foreign perceptions. Another cyclist used the term "kindnapping" in reference to the phenomenon and it's too fitting not to repurpose. This lovely family did just that, holding us hostage for an afternoon with a beautiful lunch, conversation and bundles of food to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986103764-QYONCX802AM42B6FAIKH/IMG_0862.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Cowlombia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989550692-VGT5QKCA0AJQ28VEFWAR/IMG_0874.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia The Casa de Ciclistas outside Medellín is a guest house built entirely for traveling cyclists by the magnanimous Manuel and Marta. A cozy place to wait out the rain and compare notes with other nutty cyclists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491428387333-KMTNNIC2XEA4JO92F7RP/IMG_0936.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Dreaming about our future farm. Someday, right? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986973379-MOPAGL6Q0I562844TIZB/IMG_0866.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Around every corner, more freakin' mountains.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491428467497-BDX9FWLDZE9N5MLFBTTR/IMG_0940.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia A particularly relaxing evening at Steel Horse Filandia, a hostel-in-the-making in the hills outside Filandia.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989731967-PJYVULWZM68AUEB799GQ/IMG_0796.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Getting backroadsy en route to the coastal road from Cartagena to Medellín.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986617813-C8KEAX369M1O2BMV87YE/IMG_0809.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Hills of felted gold, or so they seemed after a rainy night and excitement to descend. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490990110333-39V2AV812OO8KXF0RKZR/IMG_0908.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Cars like a well-propped period piece.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490988176461-TYO8IQGJ4TZ3IUO35JDA/IMG_0855.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Marketplace papaya.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989137331-MUG51WRXZGJ26DD5MCPD/IMG_0922.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia The bright colonial villages of the Colombia cafetero. Note the grade and the smile.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490988389433-EJUN7H29V0WAF1QDVR9N/IMG_0872.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Cowboys and fresh fruit in Jericó.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986723633-4GF3YCPGOE2PT3HQ9UYG/IMG_0811.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia When you realize you're all just waiting for the food to show. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490991688076-TUS5I3VFLPQFPPEIILOW/IMG_0804.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia The photo that single-handedly convinced Aidan it was time for a haircut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490985587387-U1385P5EBQ4DJFEYD4QY/IMG_0907.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Coffee with a view. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986475663-VFALMHUHKE78WW67149S/IMG_0816.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Tinto is the working class's coffee, made from beans not fit for exportation, served in tiny plastic cups, usually from street vendors with carts full of mismatched thermoses. Tinto translates to inky water and is made palatable by adding a lot of sugar. Aidan's face says it all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986295684-WTDNUYGWSK06NJ8AKMKO/IMG_0813.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Available at nearly every tienda, these deep-fried dough balls have become a go-to snack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491430766242-9AU7AR2OINPLHLUAV9DS/IMG_0937.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia And lastly, this.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491481484078-F7CDU6A3WZYGY59WWDAH/IMG_0927.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia HeyyyYyy.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491427004884-JEYM9N6JQ3PZ6XMYNMMK/IMG_0934.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia As the last few backpacker-toting Jeeps descended for the evening, we set up camp to palm/stargaze, armed with a couple beers and an emergency ration of instant noodles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490992386383-0UXTMZKCHSQ5A9GH8PV9/IMG_0818.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Never say no to an invitation, even if you have just eaten a huge breakfast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490991522695-8YI5HI4JM4WJPH46QUWS/IMG_0923.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia A man invited himself to our breakfast table while he drank his. He shared boozy breath, stories of the Illuminati and, eventually, this massive bag of guacamole, which completely excused his behavior. We love the guac. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986816264-4MDEGYIDE2YIN6UMPZNM/IMG_0815.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Cute until he tried to unclip our bags. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491517185189-QGEPROH3OJCN0779Q3N7/IMG_0909.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Habitat includes tall camouflaging roadside pee break grass.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490987889839-E89JJ20YK83P9FPWCJIE/IMG_0910.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia We flailed our way through a "live" Facebook interview (in Spanish) and were treated to ice cream disproportional to our performance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490987764710-JBUWIN72K0KD165I6BTP/IMG_0918.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia In retrospect, sharing may have prevented the inevitable stomach ache to follow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490991375434-PFH0KUJN3AB22VHIEPV6/IMG_0917.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Couples' suite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490986215121-67Q62GMJG3OW0VGE0SP5/IMG_0803.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Descending from our first Andean climb of the trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490987342994-TLMJ0378A76J85YLEHJJ/IMG_0808.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Animals are loved as pets by Colombianos, but these critters also fend for themselves in a way that would weed out many of those domesticated in the States. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490990433703-JNQTI4CWHVPXTOP0GFPM/IMG_0873.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia "It looks as if it were at a school playground amongst other bikes it would get bullied to shit" - Simon in reference to his locally sourced rig. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490992313407-06BB1BCXJ96DHP4K38G1/IMG_0856.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Thousand yard stare...down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490988673425-K680FSM2IR6XXX4OQ8P9/IMG_0900.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia Things that protect you from the world above.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1491429898249-CJNTTN5I223S6BNHF861/IMG_0948.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia An absurd place worth the sweaty detour.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490989264931-N5FNLYMCPYMFFZ7JF915/IMG_0805.JPG journal - Charmed in Colombia The Andes split into three separate mountain ranges in Colombia. The Cordillera Occidental, Central and Oriental. Our track has us eventually going up and over all three. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/3/22/san-blasted monthly 0.5 2017-03-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214334267-IW3T5S8CD3LZCZK9PM67/IMG_0778.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Need a little wind here.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490356153827-IU7NBM7UFWK8BS5XAJCR/IMG_0824.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Mornin' sunshine.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490356301008-LXE1ZQNVMYSXPLK8MS73/IMG_0822.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Materials testing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214529509-VYHWOWAPCBZVXX37WJUG/IMG_0776.JPG journal - San Blas'ted A madman at work.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214278554-6LFTUDEIQ3V0BLYHWUYV/IMG_0783.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Just like the postcards.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214750422-95BQP7QRFLHGH2MXZEXO/IMG_0793.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Has anyone seen the mop?  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214118600-C2H8AJRHYV9PIC3O3VLN/IMG_0774.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Amphibious attack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214426183-49PKOG2NCPBC6E5Q9PBZ/IMG_0789.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Our beautiful butterflies are sailing.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490356117844-F6W3Y77JEUOCMBVVJTPF/IMG_0823.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Desperately seeking shade. Down in front.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214071551-SK4QGR3MZMEI7JZ68TTX/IMG_0781.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Just taking a moment.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214623268-02ULFLJ7META6CMNVK9J/IMG_0787.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Dinghy joke.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214171406-V9UXQ40J1XDKUNAFQW9G/IMG_0791.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Self-proclaimed inventor of the selfie stick strikes again.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214478970-ORLZ54ONEFXRDQ79RFRC/IMG_0792.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Ahhh, blow it out your snorkel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214818076-YE2MEBPOBJ5LKCW2F271/IMG_0782.JPG journal - San Blas'ted I take my coffee with peace and quiet.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490214007730-WKGMUF1OKPP2JCWBO3ST/IMG_0784.JPG journal - San Blas'ted We watched all three hours of Castaway in preparation for this trip.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490356357839-3ULDWFZTUU61GY3XFT3D/IMG_0820.JPG journal - San Blas'ted I guess it would have been easier to just ask someone to take our picture.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490356548936-0D8PXEHKJ76S5Q8K0VI1/IMG_0825.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Trial run in the rain.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1490215014597-A40WP8U4NHXGM771O1EH/IMG_0788.JPG journal - San Blas'ted Panama City plasti-prep.  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/2/25/this-panamerican-life monthly 0.5 2017-02-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488068377555-JICGRHNFV58BMYQ0OOLO/IMG_0698.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life Too hot to venture out midday, we took to walking only during that good light. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488066552627-XBY559U17839E2JA4ZV5/IMG_0695.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life Date night in the big city.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488068689393-0FS8MLO8FQPCTDKA96NR/IMG_0696.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life End of the Central American pedaling line. From here, we catch a sail boat through the San Blas Islands, bound for Colombia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488068056805-DD27A05T8Q589J6NJTRA/IMG_0694.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life Arté Salchicha https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488066603114-05Q4E091LETZBTWOUKJL/FullSizeRender.jpg journal - This Pan-American Life https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488067849789-4EMY4S185ITMYFKREBRG/IMG_0702.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life Weaseled our way to the Hard Rock Hotel's 62nd-floor nightclub well before it opened. The janitor allowed us "cinco minutos" before sternly directing us back onto the elevator, ground floor button pre-pushed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1488068493854-UZJUY1DIJWUO0AK8GVLW/IMG_0697.JPG journal - This Pan-American Life En route to our last North Continental breakfast. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/2/11/panamom monthly 0.5 2017-02-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816656657-UTNK3VWNSKCNO5DC8CK8/IMG_0597.JPG journal - Panamom A refreshing day ride after almost three weeks out of the saddle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816076138-Y8X7WR03EO6KZWK6843T/IMG_0609.JPG journal - Panamom What is it with guys peeing off high places?? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486815861633-5JYRWHXMYU4CMD7M6F4I/IMG_0593.JPG journal - Panamom Crossing another volcano off the list.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816603654-376ADV08OFU0KQB25QRH/IMG_0611.JPG journal - Panamom I'm gonna lean up against you, you just lean right back against me. (Rio Caldera, Boquete) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487089720183-WNXD7UVI83WTPBGXD6K9/IMG_0634.JPG journal - Panamom Enjoy the monkey mom, grandchildren are a looooong ways off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816786873-YIWL3FBLF7G8O0UZ7S6S/IMG_0599.JPG journal - Panamom Exercise enforcer.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816884598-37E7EGDO7K1E2JFHAR02/IMG_0594.JPG journal - Panamom Into the cloud forest, up against Volcan Baru.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487089828486-BXLVE1VE59RUTCNFG2TU/IMG_0641.JPG journal - Panamom Picking up core strength tips.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816037063-OR6GGHO88XE0Z8PMV2KR/IMG_0620.JPG journal - Panamom When ya hands too numb to access the sandwiches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486929649958-YTIEJUNQNTSTQSKCWE5X/IMG_0618.JPG journal - Panamom Desktop wallpaper. (Click here to download high res.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486928990064-LUBECF0BWYF5JM05YANA/IMG_0615.JPG journal - Panamom Neat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486817013815-DG8ZTQUQLFTEFOC80IZG/IMG_0610.JPG journal - Panamom Coffee pickers at Finca Dos Jefes wear deep red reference bracelets to ensure only the sweetest cherries are harvested. Quality control. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816207992-RPFJGTD9BQRLH8D7HSM7/IMG_0627.JPG journal - Panamom Highly anticipated warmth at first light. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487089455214-9Q9MZKFAOYZN4RPERMCX/IMG_0640.JPG journal - Panamom Raquel (upper left) provides refuge for a variety of animals with the intent of releasing them back into the wild. Some more snuggly than others. Not pictured is the raccoon-like Coatimundi that chomped through Aidan's finger. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486817641069-GHPIK41RC8XSZEM3IOMY/IMG_0623.JPG journal - Panamom Mother/daughter moment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816831080-N2YCHWCQEEJ4F2AHZ5KF/IMG_0604.JPG journal - Panamom Long sleeves are a privilege in Central America. Boquete offered ample opportunities to bundle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816105424-4YGFBBLS2X2MNT9SCO72/IMG_0596.JPG journal - Panamom From Volcán Barú (highest point in Panama) you can see both the Atlantic (Caribbean) and Pacific. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486817394831-MW5ELKT2A9NLZRYHI7OW/IMG_0601.JPG journal - Panamom After a comprehensive coffee tour, our appreciation for the insane amount of work poured into each pound of (responsibly produced) beans has grown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487090194969-17R4G9K2GKY46H6PRMQD/IMG_0636.JPG journal - Panamom Bring it in, bud. Bring it in.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816288829-YD3UI9QLPQTNUBCUD2PK/IMG_0621.JPG journal - Panamom Volcán Barú summit. 11,400' https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487089276191-S28TFDPBE8O55CLHN26L/IMG_0632.JPG journal - Panamom Good with kids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816689370-7ZXA2KZZNUZS9HNP2NKM/IMG_0592.JPG journal - Panamom Mostly mossy.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486817685791-G67F5AWC5CRG7SI1FHCO/IMG_0613.JPG journal - Panamom We played around on this thing for 30 minutes. Biggest Air: Aidan. Best Crash: Dory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816152500-IFR0KJ45CT6LMR99U1UQ/IMG_0606.JPG journal - Panamom A 2AM departure and four-hour slog in the dark will get you a real nice sunrise.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487089650525-SCDLFTV99NKPDISSO3HX/IMG_0638.JPG journal - Panamom Emotional support animal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1487090102146-P7RNOV14WL20T3TMANFA/IMG_0639.JPG journal - Panamom Contrary to our near-non-existent sloth knowledge, these fellas are always on the move. Albeit slowly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816567405-3TM32WWCWDP806LGBL7Q/IMG_0607.JPG journal - Panamom Carrot enthusiast.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816002961-JG38OCUUZZOPW7OLALE0/IMG_0619.JPG journal - Panamom Sunrise, eastern standard time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486929881460-7RLCTATD004UEFR7USSR/IMG_0631.JPG journal - Panamom Boca Brava beach day. Thank you Stefania! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816369825-70R26PSZT2PT6O03ANQJ/IMG_0622.JPG journal - Panamom Volcán Barú's nutrient-rich soil is ideal for growing some of the best coffee in the world. Would have been nice to have a piping mug of it up there... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486929150750-XLBWARNDSMGGB1J6E29F/IMG_0595.JPG journal - Panamom "We" brought a picnic to the beach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486816512976-LBKDUAQXCQRUOA6R6GSV/IMG_0617.JPG journal - Panamom Welcome to the jungle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1486817356671-4FSDMDJCCPD1F7MOJ1TZ/IMG_0603.JPG journal - Panamom Dog days on the coffee farm.  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2017/1/19/finding-dory monthly 0.5 2017-01-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844865614-9O81O15KAHJWS6F3Q8LZ/IMG_0576.JPG journal - Finding Dory Marta and Lars. A kind Tico-Swedish couple living in Corozalito, Costa Rica. (She's covering up his "I'm Canadian" t-shirt to avoid confusion.) We found them after following a series of small, colorful cafe signs only to learn the cafe had closed last year. She generously invited us in and offered to make a couple cups anyway. 4.5 hours later we pedaled away after 2 cups of coffee, wine, a 3-course lunch and some serious warm fuzzies. If you're in the market for a farm in Costa Rica, we know a guy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844482694-PJCGUSNL2HDS41885D7M/IMG_0573.JPG journal - Finding Dory Not fooling any of the backpackers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843326939-I7C006S9M4SYVHB4U4YA/IMG_0556.JPG journal - Finding Dory Good shade's hard to come by. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844548641-WU5ILMS6XDBGKKKI2HE6/IMG_0565.JPG journal - Finding Dory Costa Rica's Nicoya Peninsula was steep, dusty and picturesque. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843363316-ED3IAXUVOZ91HI791VX4/IMG_0559.JPG journal - Finding Dory El Gigante, Nicaragua (with Costa Rica in the distance.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844915312-3ZLJTJJM6ARZSOPOZQU1/IMG_0577.JPG journal - Finding Dory When push comes to shove. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844287328-MVW6GS04A8M2J7KSWCVT/IMG_0575.JPG journal - Finding Dory These guys hang out under the highway overpass and happily eat whatever nitwit tourists throw down at them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843762253-BTHLO13F1KFWDCINF1NJ/IMG_0558.JPG journal - Finding Dory The happiest moment of Tara's life made possible by our generous WarmShowers hosts in Nicoya. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843409914-BGEYRITR7XV6GT6829MD/IMG_0570.JPG journal - Finding Dory Wind-churned Nicaraguan water combined with a low BMI still necessitates neoprene. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484848933041-JRQ589ZG29A96LC3E7KH/IMG_0584.JPG journal - Finding Dory Zoom in to see baby turtles.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844993828-RTVXBPDDF342C3H28QDN/IMG_0581.JPG journal - Finding Dory Originally named Adele as a kitten, a later discovery had him renamed Meatball. Hello from the other side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843528887-Z6AKJKPKZ152SSDNBS5W/IMG_0571.JPG journal - Finding Dory A nice moment made better by a generous pour of refrigerated red wine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843567503-D6A6M5BH6QQ4G9BDDUNR/IMG_0554.JPG journal - Finding Dory El Gigante, Nicaragua https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484848685708-5M1BSR0NDK19E7JDH0QN/IMG_0586.JPG journal - Finding Dory "I'm really into flowers." - Aidan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484849052799-B6Y0OZFTNF214BHA6LRA/IMG_0589.JPG journal - Finding Dory Howler monkey or distressed dinosaur? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843935075-XM98OIVKXESAIP22I5P1/IMG_0562.JPG journal - Finding Dory Lake Nicaragua from the shore of Ometepe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844695563-0VOWK5IVES4OSBBTY5ZV/IMG_0555.JPG journal - Finding Dory I'm sailing!   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484848717872-FQM84ZHIIYUHM8CKI06A/IMG_0587.JPG journal - Finding Dory Blue yonder.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843833012-TA4BJ1MNT5N4QWMQ3OQH/IMG_0569.JPG journal - Finding Dory And lastly, THIS.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844212629-UCKIDN1FB0RW06RA8SMP/IMG_0580.JPG journal - Finding Dory The face of someone who's trying to smile, but doesn't realize the reason she cannot is the violent food poisoning set to arrive in approximately one hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484849104566-SSPV5URM047QO0TUO4AJ/IMG_0585.JPG journal - Finding Dory Grinding cacao for future oatmeal sprinkling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1485132606398-GYW0858OHLAZQO38THAN/IMG_0560.JPG journal - Finding Dory This was our Christmas card. Feliz Navidad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843991780-GNBJER1NZ9WKHOUP8NXL/IMG_0566.JPG journal - Finding Dory Lenticular clouds and lake laundry. Ometepe Island living. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843292477-J86X5OEJIV5XOPWOIR2R/IMG_0553.JPG journal - Finding Dory Popoyo, Nicaragua https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843707406-JOKWQ0KKOW6GVX5HNN5C/IMG_0563.JPG journal - Finding Dory Pigwheel!   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484844775634-4V2ZPXMFEBVQNT3AFJYZ/IMG_0567.JPG journal - Finding Dory Stil insisting his wool t-shirt doesn't smell.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843472829-758DBQDSNOU98YODM05G/IMG_0564.JPG journal - Finding Dory ChristianMingle profile pic.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484843643425-UJKJWP3PNJ9M4DEJMS5B/IMG_0561.JPG journal - Finding Dory This little piggy had a pre-lunch beer because it was the only cold bev at the tienda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484848828234-IA573BZA1559KGDLUJ2Y/IMG_0588.JPG journal - Finding Dory We'd poke some holes, of course.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1484848755941-2XB9QIO4SPLME8LU8U1E/IMG_0583.JPG journal - Finding Dory Mosaic of Costa Rican macaws, birds better seen than heard. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/12/25/criaa3e9kak3vvyg2o73z5hvl0riqo monthly 0.5 2016-12-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721296722-1TN9SYFD9UQG47JK1PVD/IMG_0514.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Paying our dues to get into the Nicaraguan mountains. 7k ft of dirt road push/pedal elevation gain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482723102180-OAKLWS3WEG99DPXXLJIT/IMG_0527.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica For the holidays, I just adore vodka and cavia..oh, wait, what?! It's tuna fish? It's just two cans of tuna fish shrink-wrapped to a bottle of vodka? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722276149-16WU8VY365PWX8TD2GGN/IMG_0532.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica 2 Americans, a German and a Québécois wander into the jungle and try and remember the names of plants.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722994697-U5TB149KLKHGBVE0BIN6/IMG_0518.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Formidable tug-o-warrior. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721237604-DO1TTY6373OBQ8PPI1QR/IMG_0530.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica We've come to appreciate some of the more touristy towns as we are granted rare, camera-toting anonymity. (Leon, Nicaragua) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720741866-QD7IVV70AT7BC048E64Y/IMG_0499.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Pupusas and hour 6 of 10 at the La Union Oficina De Gobierno. The shitty office chair was a pity offer by one of the immigrations officers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722425623-HKJ7U96UFSEL3TRK7HOG/IMG_0508.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Holy cacao. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721130444-KC7V1TUVB4DMHSZTRL4K/IMG_0525.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica No parents, no rules! Ice cream before dinner. Also to solve all problems. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721048389-QJBL2H2I0TDJ4FEOSC39/IMG_0504.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Castles on castles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720465088-FW4U0E57XI6ROGDW8H4O/IMG_0511.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica It's churro dust. Deal with it.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720510033-SNGC335KQJXB0RY5YNBY/IMG_0513.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica In El Salvador, in Winter, the sun rises and sets over the ocean.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722712124-KQHSLQ863PI1RD5UT4YX/IMG_0512.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Resisting the camera woman's request to hit the road.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722510632-9JQDFAJFWA3N1GN138Z9/IMG_0517.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Loaner boots, for muckin' about the farm.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722170179-GJK00MFL3K551WPYN5J0/IMG_0531.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Into the bat cave. "Just keep your mouths closed if you look up..." Sage advice.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722094917-FZDJSYET3B7XU87JNM06/IMG_0529.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Calm at sunset. Gusting 40 mph for most of the night.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720950397-RU20IEE1Y82BTZLX8YSB/IMG_0533.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica What a freakin' dinosaur. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720829343-EJRYY0D8LXU6PIGB1WEM/IMG_0507.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica ¡Dios mio! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722371406-MSG50G48LBHO3ZD2L772/IMG_0505.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Comfortable couple of days in the mountains. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721574439-3TS0M90UL3F2I7XIP49V/IMG_0519.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Impressive view from Suzanne's "Bíosfera" outside Jinotega, Nicaragua. She's a saint for hosting cyclists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722856309-N9FTW5JQNAP1MPZHBLH3/IMG_0501.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Too nauseous for hammock, I'm switching to bed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720624207-0YWSEI0JYVLLA2LI7ZYK/IMG_0515.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica The Cathedral in Leon, and the market's worth of pink plastic crap that surrounds it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720677854-LLVY73ITWM71VHXJDJ9Q/IMG_0500.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica The host-ital. Recovery in the surf town, El Zonte, El Salvador. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721744106-DQ3H30AZO9ZZTA4OF64P/IMG_0520.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Gas station views in Nicaragua.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721512428-WXG3NT51CS1F3BM99G18/IMG_0524.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Cooperative pigeons.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482720559996-SA3V1JE4GN66OY3M51ST/IMG_0510.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Stomach sloshing session. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482721485206-9MDQM27DI0STAWYUZU9S/IMG_0506.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica Mr. River, one of the two loyal dogs that live at the Bíosfera. He spent most of the night outside our tent on guard. If he'd fit in a pannier, he'd still be with us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722626808-O5FJX0Q96Q2US1ODL2YG/IMG_0534.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica O'Keefe chic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1482722784647-ELLU7Z6MPSC57IB7OQSF/IMG_0528.JPG journal - Old Saint Nica These reindeer smell terrible. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/12/6/guatebuena monthly 0.5 2016-12-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053495212-PMGQ4JGYJOMXCCN9SBHV/IMG_0484.JPG journal - Guatebuena Bikes on a boat.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052074770-PIT4QLW13DJNA2IZ1I5F/IMG_0471.JPG journal - Guatebuena Our schedule was just staggered enough to have the place allllll to ourselves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052703527-ESNK9FCSF7JTXGO0G455/IMG_0490.JPG journal - Guatebuena A-grade gradients. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052283821-YGGJAV8E9X0PY1MG8JGO/IMG_0472.JPG journal - Guatebuena Looking down on Volcán Fuego from Volcán Actenango. A bit like Old Faithful, Fuego typically erupts every hour or so sending lava, rocks and plumes of smoke skyward. Apparently the week before our arrival it was particularly active, releasing "house-sized boulders," making international news. For better or worse, our show consisted of only a bit of ominous outgassing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053552606-JMJZJGMCMTCMNK5UCWV9/IMG_0489.JPG journal - Guatebuena After hearing from several reliable sources that the super steep road we intended to take saw many robberies, we opted to cut off the corner of the lake by boat instead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052762087-ZAYXSK26UBL95C3DXJVS/IMG_0483.JPG journal - Guatebuena Comprehensive summit picnic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053349502-RV6PNWNGJHC5FMCGOBLA/IMG_0486.JPG journal - Guatebuena New research finds that second brekkie is the most important meal of the day.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053632653-LZTXYWLHQIW03STYWRW0/IMG_0488.JPG journal - Guatebuena Lake Atitlan. After a brake pad burning descent, we'd finally arrive at the spit of land protruding from the rightmost volcano. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053303264-W273AP0RT8USKWVSQJK3/IMG_0482.JPG journal - Guatebuena Waiting patiently/desperately for second breakfast.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052402652-Z54IRZG8NNHJ0AYB7UPJ/IMG_0487.JPG journal - Guatebuena The view due West. The furthest horizon bump is Volcán Tajumulco and the Mexican border. Getting to the top of Acatenango felt like an appropriate bookend to Guatemala's absurd topography. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053030950-TBXCFOCF6JQWC8EGARAS/IMG_0470.JPG journal - Guatebuena Last volcano photo. That cloud line though, I couldn't get enough.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052645654-PY5KWPMXF2NYJW04LKAP/IMG_0481.JPG journal - Guatebuena Our less-than-worthy polyester backpacks, purchased a mere 8 hours prior to departure at the village's night market. Those logos will peel off in no time.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053161000-ZXEZ5YR74I2W3JV54ZUO/IMG_0475.JPG journal - Guatebuena We traded manual labor for a bagful of this family's avocados.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481053429047-939FRHJAZ7YK6G8T4YAR/IMG_0477.JPG journal - Guatebuena What do they mean when they ask at the travel immunization office if you plan on doing any spelunking? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052239314-3KSKTI03V30N8JUD4IFG/IMG_0492.JPG journal - Guatebuena Mornings are best for summiting volcanoes in Guatemala as the clouds creep in later in the day. Most people backpack in the day before, camp, and make a short summit push to watch the sunrise -- as we had done a few weeks before with Tajumulco. Not having worthy backpacks or the desire to hoof heavy loads up 6,000 feet, we opted to jam the whole thing into a single morning. A 4:30 am start time mixed with a hint of type-a hardheadedness got us to the top by 7:30. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052904528-VM8ILML679DNB88PJJ4V/IMG_0491.JPG journal - Guatebuena The ten-second self-timer wasn't quite generous enough for the slippery volcanic surface. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052954402-M2E656T8TOTI4BW65S01/IMG_0474.JPG journal - Guatebuena Under the lense flare lies Volcán Aua and Aidan on the crater rim for perspective. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1481052485368-YVENS2GDKBXRT5LJT9RA/IMG_0476.JPG journal - Guatebuena Crater laps.  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/11/26/guatemala monthly 0.5 2016-11-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189556750-EUXKUSF4LVZNHX234ZVL/IMG_0459.JPG journal - Guatemala Apparently someone broke their leg on this slide so now there's a sign. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186552282-EOCCCKZDQJQ3XP4LY4YB/IMG_0419.JPG journal - Guatemala Atop Central America's highest peak, Tajumulco Volcano.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186789938-LI9DDLE1OAFI77ZE8WMP/IMG_0426.JPG journal - Guatemala This might be the only photo that looks as cold as it felt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187400748-L0TMZBOO034Y281DG9J0/IMG_0456.JPG journal - Guatemala We didn't take nearly enough photos of Xela as our hands were usually full with school supplies, but it was a lovely place to spend a few weeks.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189638416-2F09F1BJO3KFDJ41U31Q/IMG_0454.JPG journal - Guatemala A walkabout with one of our host family members.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187452285-BYVSUX4E5YPXZHB7Q315/IMG_0461.JPG journal - Guatemala You guys, they have mayo by the gallon, in a bag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186768653-JLNZHLMVNB4BWUNSQD09/IMG_0422.JPG journal - Guatemala Note the desperately cold couple in the background. Also, the size of Luis's headlamp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189780811-NRB0PV3U5Z6VO7L8E843/IMG_0424.JPG journal - Guatemala Siesta solutions.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187193398-8Q808EH91G8DJQDPF7MT/IMG_0455.JPG journal - Guatemala Just. One. Piece. Of. Chorizo. Please. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186837498-7W6SSNPGW3C4JC6HLRC3/IMG_0427.JPG journal - Guatemala The Pacific Ocean is lost somewhere in the gradient.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480205870052-DMQTQTAQEPCMS2EOUTPD/IMG_0467.JPG journal - Guatemala Thank you PLQ for making us less of a conversational disaster.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187132957-0WEZICM9446BNZDHDCJF/IMG_0432.JPG journal - Guatemala Is that peanut butter?  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186723250-EESYBY6WFH30DWWLLV3E/IMG_0417.JPG journal - Guatemala Amaro, our over-qualified ex-guerrila guide spent years living on a similar volcano during Guatemala's armed conflict. His idea of packing was to bring two pairs of sweatpants. In different colors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186657067-7IF3G9P9XJS5VM9UXE7I/IMG_0423.JPG journal - Guatemala Smile/teeth chatter combo waiting for the sun to rise.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186690950-KX1O5D0Z38LAK6K93P8E/IMG_0434.JPG journal - Guatemala We shared the sunrise with 150 of our closest strangers.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187306126-DZN1HXZ3SNR9LCB2S0E7/IMG_0457.JPG journal - Guatemala Dia after Dia De Los Muertos and our very last in Mexico.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189850520-W64MM7OGA7SVF8FS3UEZ/IMG_0463.JPG journal - Guatemala And lastly, a really shitty photo of THANKSGIVING DINNER 2016.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187248116-Y968NTJ1ROC7STCSPWBL/IMG_0441.JPG journal - Guatemala Small decks here in Xela. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187086526-363A0TWFDGXUMOLV448E/IMG_0433.JPG journal - Guatemala We were fully equipped with appropriate cold-weather camping gear but still found the hike and overall experience to be a bit brutal. Hats off to our classmates, many of whom were in jeans and sneakers with rented sleeping bags. Hardly anyone complained. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480187037988-BUVYIE84LCTUT10BDXDI/IMG_0428.JPG journal - Guatemala Sprinting towards the warmth.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186895293-82SPVFVVJ25E3YGY4EQJ/IMG_0431.JPG journal - Guatemala The second highest peak in Central America hiding behind the shadow of Tajumulco. Guatemalans are quick to point out that it's 200 meters shorter, and technically in Mexico.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189104119-RPVKPGBEOK3N0L4ZAJBF/IMG_0429.JPG journal - Guatemala Studying at Carl's casa de cyclistas. Another WarmShowers gem in San Cristobol Totonicapan.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480189965826-6DOFJ0CXYSBHOGD4E9MV/IMG_0425.JPG journal - Guatemala Shortly after throwing my bike, twice. Peanut butter bandaid.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480190301918-BSGSIIYJSPRONTOBPLLF/IMG_0460.JPG journal - Guatemala Less glamorous study session (in our host family room.)  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1480186618577-PCCF873VJRI9CLNIP4FI/IMG_0421.JPG journal - Guatemala Serious head cold at 13,845'  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/11/1/100-days monthly 0.5 2016-11-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048924416-8UZ54N6CVMP80J9E30XJ/IMG_0368.JPG journal - 100 Days It was a full pick-up!  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478050740261-B26TSDSIKOLB42GBC45B/IMG_0403.JPG journal - 100 Days And a comprehensive tour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478057098890-63EK2LN8IQNWBU3P7EMF/IMG_0405.JPG journal - 100 Days More than once we were forced to walk our bikes down unridable slopes but at least the views were nice.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049012763-PWDSEVPP1QP7OYTLSESM/IMG_0371.JPG journal - 100 Days Upon arriving in the tiny pueblo of San Francisco Coatlan, we were corraled into the back of a pick-up for a tour of the Pine forest an hour outside of town. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049219518-6G1IU9B8613YZTYSGL2G/IMG_0377.JPG journal - 100 Days Future autopista.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049326583-FY6Y3JCJ8ZZOT0LW4OVS/IMG_0382.JPG journal - 100 Days We were lucky to end up under a nice man's beachfront palapa after discovering the campsite we were aiming for had been destroyed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049249460-7XUYHC374Z6XZ0F7IBIY/IMG_0378.JPG journal - 100 Days ...just have to finish the bridge parts.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049047990-SF79PNRG1SERIIXF4YMS/IMG_0372.JPG journal - 100 Days Turns out cornfields don't have to be flat.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049184319-WZQKSM6XJ1IXZA5CEZAQ/IMG_0376.JPG journal - 100 Days Lovely n' layered.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049633205-9P4K9RKRIXA5L3UWS46O/IMG_0396.JPG journal - 100 Days In what can only be described as a complete coincidence we crossed paths with friends of friends outside Puerto Escondido whose only instruction was to "look for the sweaty kids on bikes in orange safety vests." That was enough.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048755263-N13FZGOL7X1V8UW97GTI/IMG_0362.JPG journal - 100 Days It took Tara some time to warm up to Choochie.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049597524-XJUP5PMOB9BB1G0FPJCE/IMG_0392.JPG journal - 100 Days Ankle-breakingly competitive beach soccer.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048676767-N8MKLTV4HG2I2JX0ELQ9/IMG_0359.JPG journal - 100 Days Choochie! The pet squirrel.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478050894994-4R0LZTJCGWBYDU4YLKQ8/IMG_0407.JPG journal - 100 Days Sizing each other up.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049295445-0W1FD2576XZ05K06N9KG/IMG_0381.JPG journal - 100 Days First official river crossing. The photographer, ankle deep, did not fare as well.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049446024-WBOAC0HAK9QJ8EIC2XYO/IMG_0387.JPG journal - 100 Days A snorkeler's worst nightmare.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049350663-2KSJ6LTSZJC237ZDB29S/IMG_0383.JPG journal - 100 Days Obsessive wave check. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049684220-ET7H7VLSHKCEBRTBXQCN/IMG_0404.JPG journal - 100 Days And lastly, when never saying "no" finally backfires.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049120296-YV0J0XI9GES0G28SLH43/IMG_0374.JPG journal - 100 Days Tough to say goodbye after sharing an evening of basketball and conversation/interrogation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048874767-5QF536U16LHZKFSQC68A/IMG_0367.JPG journal - 100 Days This woman knows good coffee. If you're ever on the outskirts of Oaxaca, look her up.  (Espacio Cafe) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049157534-LW4N9E58LVSVZOMX348G/IMG_0375.JPG journal - 100 Days The backway from Oaxaca to the beach is almost all dirt roads and the tiny towns they connect.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478049576853-T5ZH5HLY2OUNQ2STWVT3/IMG_0393.JPG journal - 100 Days Thanks to an out-of-date iOverlander recommendation, we ended up here for the night.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478050961146-F1RQRPPUBV2UQVMOCLHH/IMG_0410.JPG journal - 100 Days Wildflower fields outside Yaluma, Chiapas.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048709189-BNTF79AUMW081U1Q8AKS/IMG_0360.JPG journal - 100 Days The only ethical way to wear fur is to feed it crackers.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1478048729326-7AXV8NPXXT1AGXHR1QGE/IMG_0361.JPG journal - 100 Days Nibble fest.  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/10/18/mexico-is-massive monthly 0.5 2016-12-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820772208-9LBD75RKI3HAWPRHPQ3W/IMG_0358.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Oaxaca sunrise stroll.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476823844535-77SE7XN960JO58FGZYAX/IMG_0307.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Steep Santiago Azajo streets.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822049919-B2XH2W1GZTLB5CXGEC27/IMG_0346.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Can't say we know much more than what's in the photo but...wow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821780210-18PE4YDUJF50RX6ETW4W/IMG_0354.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Dogs on the roof Part II.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476823483064-1BHG8KJJNHB874SVUR4K/IMG_0334.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Small town church tour.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821382306-68I212YUA0HWWCQ8FUNI/IMG_0336.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Crossing into Oaxaca from Puebla made for a grueling few days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821323547-0PHBOMIHBRP8ED29RZAC/IMG_0348.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. URBAN ZONE https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476823339907-6YPVY9ZKKUJBTTQTWX6I/IMG_0330.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. And lastly, cuter dog poo signs in the States please.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820701167-OFJ67Y4BZO3KNDNG7OII/IMG_0321.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Gold accent goals. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820248122-ZBPTXDZCP0Y8YV90JCLW/IMG_0323.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Another one for the moms.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822478266-SCNTXVHWHNYIDC0NEQSS/IMG_0344.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. The decor is in the details.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820016103-Z7MPMFO99LLL3J0TAQM5/IMG_0314.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Those paws. Those paws. Those paws.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821933362-ZBOVAD57BSNV1X56DQR4/IMG_0316.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Sometimes the safest place to camp is at the police station.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822158222-5KH24DNF8YC4WK4OK4CQ/IMG_0313.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. We in tamale territory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820076630-M1Y39K9NFVJTXH6G5B5Y/IMG_0319.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Our skepticism of this place being too touristy was unwarranted as we had the hilltop to ourselves for the afternoon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822682713-IGOBL6VRG2DRNK7GMF4S/IMG_0325.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Dogs on the roof Part I.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821904527-VLNZI2LY1N0ZO4NXWWHB/IMG_0312.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Don't fight the siesta.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822253654-QAI9YO6TFZLZ9ZKBNPLA/IMG_0340.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Forced friends.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821603482-JTFRH2ZCRKYBUNLCHFWC/IMG_0355.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Our gracious Oaxaca Warm Showers host invited us up the hill to a gathering of musicians/mezcal enthusiasts. Once again we did the best we could with our pity percussion handouts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822906873-4VTZI3S84UI1WJ1XKZ6Q/IMG_0309.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Camping is often a generous term.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476823262849-IZTGRXAHM5KSJL4IKC2Y/IMG_0327.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Bikes aren't technically allowed on the autopista but that shoulder is so, so good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821417555-A1HFFSWG7H1HH82IW90U/IMG_0333.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Helmet hiking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820376051-FD225MS59POF2GAIT50X/IMG_0331.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Tan line update.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821168354-YSI8Z7PM0K60MU006GTL/IMG_0318.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Verde, roja y mole. All equally delicious. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822799666-1HWRCBIV9T5MTAF174J4/IMG_0356.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Oaxaca is full of dreamy nooks and crannies.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476822327527-382MLNS7UZJDL38Y07SR/IMG_0357.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Forced early morning Oaxaca walkabout.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820201640-LSOYF5EP7809FAQ81QDT/IMG_0328.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. The Monte Alban ruins, one of Mesoamerica's earliest cities dating back 2500ish flippin' years. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476821230366-V08HL92YW1LQE6PWAJ2Z/IMG_0308.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. The ultimate portable snack, steamed to perfection. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820642677-TV9SC5YEK7HFDYZEF4UW/IMG_0326.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Snack religiously.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476819951619-66TT8QDT1DBKFDEICK5W/IMG_0317.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Thank you, Google maps. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820425897-DHED9EZ0UVZ5LDGFZT4D/IMG_0324.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. A night off from street tamales to celebrate two years together. Aidan dressed up.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1476820148441-UUV2269RHZZR5W54OHKW/IMG_0306.JPG journal - Mexico is massive. Fine line between small roads and no roads.   http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/10/3/mainland-mex-1 monthly 0.5 2016-10-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546010388-RMYHO8RNFK7S5L3R44NE/IMG_0303.JPG journal - Mainland MEX A few days after the storm and still not a sign or cone in sight. It's these types of obstacles that work in our favor as they encourage driver awareness.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546280035-3ZVXYFEA0JNLHV8GX0ZP/IMG_0229.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Hitching post. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548240296-IUDWQ4KCPF1YT3NGCCLI/IMG_0245.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Pannier-sized puppy.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546475286-XCAGZM1GM9RG88NFAZF9/IMG_0241.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Highway hideout.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548316733-BMJFV7ADKWH7CADNN5AK/IMG_0301.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Shitty coffee and cock fight flyers!  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548364574-SV1C63PN5EA9I0KFI3FI/IMG_0300.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Important churro update.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546368731-7V70WPBEVMHTYU6WLR4L/IMG_0231.JPG journal - Mainland MEX All shapes and sizes.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545591386-P8RYYFL8OKWI89RNFZX3/IMG_0276.JPG journal - Mainland MEX The mountains east of Puerto Vallarta are as steep as they are green.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545733994-NRCILBHP527BK8Z4YPKN/IMG_0289.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Fully-loaded wheelie.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548337023-14XJ7WH2JYSE2XQU9QGX/IMG_0302.JPG journal - Mainland MEX L O S T C H I C K E N https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475547863217-EMJ0O2YSXARGUMLZFNG7/IMG_0282.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Somehow the veladoras always seem to be lit.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546341454-C4TN99YA9CFQFXP7ULFB/IMG_0223.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Not in the desert anymore. Outside Miramar, Mex.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545979168-9QWILXDOJPI9DQ7QJ7A5/FullSizeRender.jpg journal - Mainland MEX A few hours before the most exciting thunder/lightning storm of the trip (so far.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546140043-QIMVLZVBY303GGHGW0FZ/IMG_0240.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Laundry lines where you can find them.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546044797-QEZ1KYAYF5KP8L6SUDN2/IMG_0295.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Outside La Estancia where we'd have our first taste of Raicilla, Mexico's moonshine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545951062-C125N1DM4NSEAZR7WXKW/IMG_0271.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Thanks to our friend Kate for chasing us down the street to capture a rare photo of the two of us riding together.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475547907993-1ZPGKJSQLOPRT2HCPRO7/IMG_0279.JPG journal - Mainland MEX More roadside memorials than is comforting although the intricacies are gorgeous.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545889611-1YRN8UI66SF39QEAL83P/IMG_0234.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Sayulita, Mexico.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546202757-SXNSDNSTUL0ADHJZIPI8/IMG_0299.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Urban oasis. Tepic, Mex.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545818152-7TQ765HPN4BSM2Z5967B/IMG_0296.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Who wore it best?  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545753256-AX3W0WBKLLH6Q3OTOMZI/IMG_0273.JPG journal - Mainland MEX No HOA in Mexico. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545546229-AHKA1XX386AJ69A2D8PB/IMG_0298.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Viewpoints are few and far between in Mexico and, as a result, we weren't the only ones stopped to take in the hills of Mascota below.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545675500-6OP8VKO7MX0AJHMQINJJ/IMG_0283.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Nature!  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548619413-BI1Q0FD2KELF3YO3CA5B/IMG_0259.JPG journal - Mainland MEX And lastly, this.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475545916010-DW644NVE1Z4SSRF0LGUP/IMG_0251.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Rainy season rewards.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475547986137-S9ZPKH8G10WTFSX3YQTQ/IMG_0252.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Aidan for scale.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475546073839-SJCKRMHEGYDLAJYUR50R/IMG_0304.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Fence posts where you can find them. One of Mexico's consistent examples of just making it work.   https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548506003-MC822Y70NZ844SGP7SAZ/IMG_0230.JPG journal - Mainland MEX For the moms.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475548740609-9Z3M6NTHGHZ49U1EGY9C/IMG_0275.JPG journal - Mainland MEX Impressive bridge...and neck tan.  http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/10/1/last-of-baja monthly 0.5 2016-10-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373637552-QYNW80TLURHARJY2J65I/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Aidan and Fang Part I. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373992976-5M24FQG1MQU0DBOTLYES/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja All dressed up to celebrate Mexico's independence. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373672689-7BU6R3KQPW89WTBSVRYH/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Aidan and Fang Part II. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373513223-Q7SB5IKK05VYJDUSSTA4/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja 4 humans, 2 bikes, 10 bags and a cat. There was a considerable amount of dismantling to make it all fit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475374121894-B35TTYDQA99SDXLLKIOH/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Last of the Sea of Cortez views before crossing over to the mainland. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373735559-4MQ8REDFOZFXWAOZVCEG/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Corey Menzies photo. Corey subsidizes a portion of his surf travel by selling photos out of his van. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373943787-OVBL35YSKIYR3J90VCRT/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Uncomfortably close. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373964686-LBNCDBO4CB30BH3ID94K/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Tara playing it cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475374201833-H71WANL9AKH5DG7W15GR/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Las Pocitas homestay. Well, we camped in the driveway anyway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475374031521-PQ0PJYU1P2Q7UT6YYP2I/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja We've been referring to the sun as the blazing hell ball. Here it is at 7:15AM pushing 85 degrees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373924945-CYS66IXD00O11A9OAIVQ/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Scotty putting the scorpion in Scorpion Bay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475374241093-ZWUH87OMINJQT002LKGF/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Catcus https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373794659-3Z4BS2N3MF5EE7DHVCDG/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Recreation station. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475374731348-7NOWTCOFT05IGAKL8MCU/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja And lastly, Tuly, our host in La Paz. Infamous in the Warmshowers community for her consistently gracious hospitality. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373703260-CGTJBRHVX66D0CQ10AWM/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Excited to be out of the saddle for a few days. Really excited. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1475373760024-BU93QJOUQU8TEB5F835K/image.jpg journal - Last of Baja Another Corey. Given the level of surfing, these were freebies. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/9/11/heat-hurricanes-and-mangos monthly 0.5 2016-09-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632575453-LS0Z3Z2Z58CNUJPNHUQO/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Hurricane damage in San Ignacio. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632669572-N81GAUUHG9MA6BLWKTRP/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Bagged beans, oh boy! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632098009-N627GWFQ96P6VM0716GQ/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Bahia de Concepcion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632168708-CCS7PCT3EY4N1H8KN0X1/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Playa Coyote abode. We had the place to ourselves due to a classic off-season, post hurricane combo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632044452-S0YY2T1FSY6JK1WZO0E6/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Vultures on cacti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632516165-SG4BFIH6UVMSLUD8EZAM/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632830748-WVMU8MNBPNVYG0FP943K/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Refusing my request to act natural. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632279693-DWA4T0DLKH2VUI0JO9FF/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632701878-Q9134NS7YAP3KWV2VUYD/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos A man is never too far from his hot sauce. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632208680-D8CTEPVC4HQND2YY1215/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Palapa dinner prep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632417639-QGJSERVDX11D8G38O90X/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos They got the crawdads on Baja. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632755822-CLW9W2ECTVBHFYTEI7YY/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632781420-J1OT0T6J97BGRQRVMGAQ/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632301508-0SPYBCCG41R99E1ZR4FF/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632858905-ESCF8GY6JLMBPO6YNB6N/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473631910151-QTLVAR6Y8DMQ58TFUW1L/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos SPF 50 is simply not strong enough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632613449-FI2FQ85B5K5OYZHWIJGQ/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Casa de Cyclistas. San Ignacio. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632011483-ITY7144BAGHXXIUNU16R/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Pushing in to Playa Coyote. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632481316-H1V59YVF6EAM6XRH5LON/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos Waiting out Hurricane Newton in Vizcaino. Photo by artist/hotel owner, Fabiola Ibarra. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632352701-OKQOHE6QHDVRPNAM7F9B/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632723455-233BGJ9ISWIFNHRE08AS/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473632890103-KL4SYCK6F48QQZL8VBES/image.jpg journal - Heat, Hurricanes and Mangos And lastly, THIS. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/9/4/baja-norte monthly 0.5 2016-09-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473001818245-JXEO0ZJ0R9EH3N6AN0T8/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Baja Gothic https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002940839-G286U1WUGI5JKSQQT7E8/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte A scene all too familiar these past few days. On the far left, a trucker memorial complete with the hood of his cab and prayer candles. The mangled guard rail and "curva peligrosa" to the right, and the remains of the cab itself, below. With no one interested in cleaning up the pieces that don't have value the debris remain to complete an almost complete scene and haunting roadside reminder. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002880373-2FX4IDYPUQAP4PIFFQU8/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Our gracious Warmshowers host in San Quintin, Gabino. We left fed, rested, showered, laundered and full of optimism that there are more people like Gabino in this world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002966856-ZICV7CVRHLUH0IYJYX1W/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003751353-B38CGBG2HZHV9JEBQBQZ/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte And lastly, THIS. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002435499-GEXMNI749IDX618UBAQJ/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Part waterpark, part campground. We received some not-so-savvy intel about camping here. Long and the short, we paid a premium for the water slides but left before they opened. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002205347-CFO4E4XSLILHYU0UUBOT/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Strange, but relaxing campsite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003070648-E9B1UFN1UJ2RZKGVYFYV/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Impromptu bike stand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002698775-8M4WSS6K1A7UMTA9WTB0/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473001861183-G0NL3IJJ64TOD2FXP6PB/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Our first evening in Mexico. So clean. So clueless. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002545716-JO6ZYQ86SJG4TDF1RX75/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte No idea where the dirt ends and tan begins. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003242351-OWEGU2Z3OAJQE3GBZ1L4/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Watch. Your. Step. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002653313-L27EOLD61RQDUR40VMY7/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Aidan and Sanchez had the place to themselves allllllll morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003185518-5PFKWSB2149JJKZDJ9AE/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Blocking out the last hour or so of blazing sun before setting up camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002041727-N3UO4YRI744CSGC6Z452/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002609336-ZAMQ0H5XKG7P2D3F3U1E/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Surf spectator zone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002999318-68KWZS1YRKQGPUJMVNIZ/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Navigating prickly terrain in search of a good tent site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002632741-DA705NY90GOAUQYPJ37O/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002851186-QJWKVVG1W7FD1Z5R4UT4/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte First official push of the trip. Soft, deep sand. A little insulting after a long day, but refreshing to get off the main road. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003317879-VIZS6JZNV6P6VO4OJ7TM/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Quiet, peaceful, private nook complete with an incredibly starry sky. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002780121-3JM3AJHZQVTTIF9AHVF8/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte San Vicente. One of many snack pit stops. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003038643-GMV7WER83IHXTINVP8R5/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte The real question is what haven't we wrapped in a tortilla at this point...? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003346500-OQNNDVFH1Q77X8MB5G5C/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Some people just aren't cut out for life on the road. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003390443-1DV9VMCRK087W48TF5NH/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte We rode past this the day after watching local news coverage of Trump's visit to Mexico. Trust levels are understandably low at the moment. Thanks-but-no-thanks for making the trip a little more tense, Don. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002680109-020T4W8Q97ET34DU8JEL/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte The waves got better and better throughout the morning, but the camerawoman grew tired of her perch on the bluff. :) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002899121-HZGRIUCAFUA7REXAUUNW/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Gabino's fresh fig bounty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473001973328-857D4MNDGZFQ3VVJB0U7/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002492507-MN12ZF00B1MTGPUZKI40/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Moments before this moment, the Coca Cola truck in the background passed another semi taking up both of the oncoming lanes and leaving us pulling cactus thorns in the ditch. We both swore oaths to never touch the stuff again the rest of the way into town. Sun blasted and staring off into space outside the mercado a local man stuffed a 1.5 liter (!!) bottle into my hand, ignoring my protests as he gestured to his own 1.5 liter. Oath broken, near tears at his generosity and left to sift through the levels of irony for the remainder of the evening's ride. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473001894915-FCN0W82NMNJB7MS308KZ/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Spectating a very sketchy takeoff. We can only assume that he landed somewhere safely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002074418-45XYBIE098NK37SMB380/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002820054-F5K2C337TEY1STQZNU55/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte After the eight mile surf detour on 4WD roads/sand, we were delighted to get tossed around next to farming equipment and barbed wire on the way back into town. Gracias senor! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003434596-BOKOTBFHZWEPDAGFAO1A/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473001943051-J9O6WJMNM0UFTCYM4XA5/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte La Misión https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002467556-TBJCJZ3HJSUT0JXGHIQQ/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Dinner and dirty shorts, mmmm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003128100-9P60QI56NUGRVW376RUG/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Enthusiastic about dromedary bag shower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473003657040-F92NLFOQRT2UKOU1ARXV/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte We've been carrying roughly two gallons of water each through desolate areas. With added weight comes added piece of mind. Every so often a roadside oasis appears and we take a break from our hot water reserves to chug an ice-cold bev. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1473002584432-X3A3APKJZPLQ7K0KAFJU/image.jpg journal - Baja Norte Surf timeout at Cuatro Casas Hostel. The owner's been off the grid, running this place for 35ish years. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/8/25/baja-bound monthly 0.5 2016-08-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472150930808-80Y5N4ZFTDK6J2ZHJO6K/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Thrilled to have use of a full-sized kitchen after weeks of one-pot campstove meals. Janet is less enthusiastic. Thank you Wallis for the top-notch hospitality! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151285728-3Z2673V2W1FSBZ0GZKG4/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Laguna leg-stretcher https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151246096-EP3RZ172ANS0L8KN8KZG/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Stocking up on a few "essentials" before crossing the border. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151113651-7LL2P7XF07WOATHJQHUO/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Laguna Beach loiter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151182894-MSWYDNLBB0ZA0TAQJT0H/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Clay rode with us from Studio City some 75 miles to Laguna Beach. A welcome addition and our first official ride-along. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151152410-XOMQLES6NWTCRL1HNCCD/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Our first ride of the trip from Santa Monica to Studio City. Thnx Clay! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151215115-OPER6X5TUMMO197SPDKN/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Long Beach luncheon https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151350718-EHUD2ZZSU68Q5VK0BQR1/image.jpg journal - Baja bound https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151333963-9UA87CRY66N3T3M2WH7Y/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Spoiling nice moments since 1985. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151441737-BBTHZK4FOKVXWHDS8359/image.jpg journal - Baja bound https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151080309-1VM58WEMYS8MVRGMF3IA/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Missile park picnic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151385769-NL6OUF6FVDEG6MG7GY7C/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Top bun does Laguna. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151740866-WCDM80PZSCNCMY7ZGID4/image.jpeg journal - Baja bound Ventura abode. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151060756-15Z7VQRK3RZ27SZAFTEK/image.jpg journal - Baja bound Surf sesh for Aidan. Pummeling for Tara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151316284-3IM6FSIO5XLLTJNRJI28/image.jpg journal - Baja bound "DOES ANYONE ACTUALLY USE THESE THINGS?!" Aidan gasped with a compromised lung capacity due to machine misuse. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1472151404101-WN9BYN1EN6U3HUMKDUE1/image.jpg journal - Baja bound http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/8/19/central-ca monthly 0.5 2016-08-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623593942-7CLJI9IF2MUMZQB98HEZ/image.jpg journal - Central CA Moments before the dolphin show. A magical (yet sadly smoky) morning in Big Sur.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624204157-Q9PXB2CW9U94DLI4YDUT/image.jpg journal - Central CA Coincidental engraving discovery mid snack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623632450-KYNYAXM042ZGN14J01CC/image.jpg journal - Central CA Housed among the eucalyptus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624209304-8797R08O4ERE45ML134F/image.jpg journal - Central CA And lastly, we aim to inspire when we urge you not to resist when weaknesses become strengths. Donut power is real. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624081095-RPCISO63LYDF0RTL8EZV/image.jpg journal - Central CA Strawberry fields forever... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624156710-3BECXLJNYIPHGUQ4H1BP/image.jpg journal - Central CA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623667003-TJMRA949JO1HUL3RK30G/image.jpg journal - Central CA We arrived to Montana De Orro in a state of desperation and diminishing daylight. The host saw the crushing disappointment in our faces after breaking the news that they were at capacity and have never offered hiker/biker sites. Although clearly our fault as we hadn't done our homework, she caved and graciously put us up in a partially washed out, former motorcycle spot at a heavily discounted price. There are those willing to bend the rules and those who are not. We've come to really appreciate the former. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623609846-C266SYVCZA2WFJ2T1E7U/image.jpg journal - Central CA Aidan: What day is it?  Tara (with confidence): Tuesday Aidan: How did you know that? Tara: Because yesterday you told me it was Monday.   We're a mess. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623701593-IMGSCOTVJYJPH1CH4W71/image.jpg journal - Central CA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624001153-0WIBD5UYGS6X42YD52Y6/image.jpg journal - Central CA The one on the left requires less outlet scouting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624107156-IZOMRLQV0L8MX23L548J/image.jpg journal - Central CA San Gregario, CA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623721525-TWFMTK1PWX9I6O00Q6ZB/image.jpg journal - Central CA Armed with the shmear stick, taking it all in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623839135-2VLVNTGJIWWCOC0MPAEI/image.jpg journal - Central CA Although Google maps really nails the bike route directions sometimes, we're excited for printed maps and confusing navigational conversations/charades south of the border. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623961293-M1ZD7SVOYNM0289GWBTB/image.jpg journal - Central CA Classic one-potter https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623778840-S5YF5DMOYNH5X41LMZFB/image.jpg journal - Central CA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623800988-7J6YBLL2I1MRDKNH36M4/image.jpg journal - Central CA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624193026-BIDN4MKZ03442VGILQAY/image.jpg journal - Central CA Super duper important update: We are now hauling two varieties of nut butter. That's all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623937926-J9I94JR3FWOH5CA72U00/image.jpg journal - Central CA Aidan's POV https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471623750159-7OBEYX8YAW7D6SQ9ENSO/image.jpg journal - Central CA The bandito ventilator was more effective at glasses fogging than air filtering. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624048459-1JR1Z38A915BKSJIUCCR/image.jpg journal - Central CA First flat of the trip. Mile 1200ish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1471624176431-ED4A98YSSN4EF0LZ3YXP/image.jpg journal - Central CA Navigating http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/8/11/initial-impressions monthly 0.5 2016-08-11 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937826104-EFEFZIMTDYHCXV7UVMAF/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions CA crossing.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936625009-EXSE4BZMZPAEH1EYKQTY/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Morning routine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470938831787-D0YGZ6VCMLX38YGX9KW7/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Particularly exceptional lunch zone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936820206-FO9A0VXXKYVTC9KRB5B3/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions For the folks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470938134778-8U8V3FZ3A7SZW5AX07T3/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions We blocked bridge traffic for this shot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936311969-UFX5VZ3A463DJY3EKQ34/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936697799-MA8IIEG5RM89N7EZZESH/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937067745-KGSGRXE50KXF312W1G36/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Wayyyyy overdue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937726365-E2QG0U0BRPG5S1W978L8/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Caught snacking.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936806274-M7FU6BV21B2BNJ9WIMW6/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Cape Blanco was worth the detour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470939391478-OB424CQRYO2YZST24364/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Stinson Beach abode. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470939216225-D7EJ95OY177OYJLWL29P/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions About 90 miles into a 100 mile day, smiling on the inside.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936185858-PWOSILPF4EDIP3IWLA0L/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936019701-KSOVO1UTRSJGWJVABQY1/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Off to a scorching start.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937680857-NQX9ZNLBNO1QXRA0SPM8/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470939059274-0HHNXO2NQ1HW91CPRMYO/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Bananas are merely vehicles for as much PB as possible.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470939345322-H1AMDBPJJ8LG64HVYO1J/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Gracious/adorable Stinson Beach hosts: Sara, James and baby Jonas. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937731458-AVELOS4INHXI6M64IGMH/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Campsite bounty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937429047-RIPOQVHAOI3IYITHX7J5/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Feverishly digging out the last scoop of peanut butter. Jar count: 6.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470938394020-3SY9B9TIUKCY4UZGI0ZC/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936080260-UAVAAKO8MILFDDG53RLW/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937120483-CKM84KP9HKRQBSFZO7G6/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937138114-9CYB54TGSEGSUB3GBUOV/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937120592-SUTT9QZSQ0F8B0XXQLRI/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Typical lunch spread.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936266363-DW1SAGAJUHF53U8VJR83/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936797975-EOFTP23GC6HU27KW8B5E/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Sunday's Taco Tuesday https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937804732-0XYV0RP1RFNB2MRU9DPR/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Blue Blossom Farm Warmshowers stay.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470936410532-853XJ5B3ANQRVRJQZKJM/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Hard five.  https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1470937741604-84DC14LYFZA8NOARZUKA/image.jpg journal - Initial Impressions Oatmeal. Every. Morning. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/7/22/were-doing-it monthly 0.5 2016-07-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1469210629673-RQUIP6I0L0RGE3ZS82D7/image.jpg journal - We're doing it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1469210917497-NSLQ30P1TVB3W6F7JLEP/image.jpg journal - We're doing it. http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/5/31/qamc7ud2kje44x9pyhdzf1nivwjl2a monthly 0.5 2016-06-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755074369-GS1KSDXJBNC0Q9J2E18V/EODR_03.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755076829-R23ARC1HY2346QW2KI9M/EODR_04.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464840461203-9W39LNZU0ON8EA6G3RU9/EODR_08.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464840945119-UPIL34HL5RHZJ5OLHN01/EODR_09.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1466185260688-C3BUYWUWI1RVKVJWCF3J/IMG_8889.JPG journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755063994-FNBMO35X70PZ6XIVAP0W/EODR_02.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755088346-UO1XITWZTH48X6SYEW83/EODR_05.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755099004-U8AWC9TFZNVWGCU8BFJP/EODR_07.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464840022726-32GKEDVQUARY3RR06MKH/EODR_10.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1464755064950-DP06C08A2KRDYUVDJSJI/EODR_01.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1467146336679-HWWZ15W8FBC8K9EBAPTS/IMG_1178.jpg journal - Memorial Day Dry Run http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/journal/2016/4/18/spanish-101 monthly 0.5 2016-04-21 http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/about daily 0.75 2018-03-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1485379951525-SJ59GD854RC1GS7RPKV6/IMG_1820.JPG about Processed with VSCO with f2 preset Processed with VSCO with f2 preset http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/home daily 1.0 2018-03-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1459286296037-ZT9V7YCZZI0T8VEHRUAG/IMG_5953.jpg PORTLAND TO PENGUINS http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/logo daily 0.75 2016-07-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1469422448718-Z63LIQEN4INTIN3XZUYY/PDX_PENG_LOGO.png logo https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56ec63414d088eba2c0987ba/1469420293307-VD29JGY4RPAX20651SXX/PDX_PENG_LOGO-01.jpg logo http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/map daily 0.75 2016-07-25 http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/read-me-five daily 0.75 2025-05-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5016d42984ae3ecc9e018d91/1376581849029-XMY0369BNE3M724R2LNA/51b7353be4b049e6ffb2caaf.png Read Me https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5016d42984ae3ecc9e018d91/1378827958933-4PFZPMQ2B5002HIZNKCA/BeeHive+%2820130910%29.jpg Read Me https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5016d42984ae3ecc9e018d91/1376581850041-71T9N2T854LTY451D3G4/51b75f4be4b0b1ab92015ea0.png Read Me https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5016d42984ae3ecc9e018d91/1376686207692-LRO3OMT4KGTOS9Q8WIRN/gBO0wXUBOBY-QkPZm8Lvg-I-ifill_2048.jpg Read Me http://www.portlandtopenguins.com/page-2 daily 0.75 2025-05-08